When in Rome, Mangia! - Best Eats

 

Silky pumpkin and sage custard. Crumbly sour cherry and ricotta frolla. Fragrant, thin slices of potato rosemary pizza. These are some of the new tastes I encountered in Rome, a food-obsessed city that has delicious vegetarian options at reasonable prices (Traveling to Italy as SE Asia resident means everything seems comparatively expensive. Except for wine. Thank god for small miracles.). Here are some of my recommendations for veg-friendly feasting, guilt-free gelato and gifts for foodies.

*Where to Unwind with Friends for Hours over Wine and Good Conversation*

On our first night, we had dinner with Sebastiano and Diana, who we met via our Italian friend in Bangkok. They brought us to Meridionale in the hip Trastevere area across the river from Rome's centro storico. Sebastiano explained that Trastevere is so interesting because it's right in the heart of the city, yet it's built just like some tiny villages in the Italian countryside. This trattoria, tucked away from the bustling crowds of tourists, is instantly welcoming with its low-key but funky interior. This is where the aforementioned pumpkin and sage custard happened, incredibly creamy and bursting with rich flavor. After the antipasti, I had a decadent, perfectly peppery cacio e pepe with a lovely Italian white wine that helped cut the richness. 

Over the meal, we discussed Rome recommendations, talked about what it's like to live in Bangkok, and how challenging it is for young professionals in Italy to find suitable jobs these days. But despite the difficult times, it seemed like everyone still recognized the importance of good food, drink and company. The flow of patrons to Meridionale's few tables never stopped, even as our jet lag came crashing down and we had to leave. By then, the streets were much quieter, emptier as we strolled back to the river and I got a sense of what Sebastiano meant about the tiny Italian village. It was undoubtedly the perfect way to kick-off our exploration of Rome. Thanks, Sebastiano and Diana!

*Where to Enjoy Guilt-Free Gelato*

After our Vespa tour of the city the next afternoon, we were well overdue for some gelato. On our way back to the apartment (AirBnB = best decision ever), we popped into Cambiovita - an organic, vegetarian/vegan cafe and gelateria. Vegan options were abound, including vegan pistachio, dark chocolate and hazelnut, in addition to the usual fruit-based gelato. I went for a sour cherry and (non-vegan) cream combination that absolutely hit the spot, especially after a morning spent on the back of a scooter in relentless sun. With a mission to promote healthy and smart eating, I figured Cambiovita was a good cause and as I daintily threw back the melted dregs of my cup, I promised to return the following day.

*Where to Fuel Up Before Visiting the Vatican*

Recommended by Italian food expert/blogger Katie Parla and her amazing food app, Romeo was a much needed treat after a long morning of spontaneous exploration devolved into two hangry people (okay, maybe only one) getting lost. This restaurant/deli offers just the fuel needed to face the hordes of tourists at the Vatican later that afternoon - huge slabs of varied pizza cut and weighed to order, fresh sandwiches on pillowy foccacia, and an interesting selection of wine and craft beers. Pem had a nice glass of wine wine with an Asian take on spaghetti - green beans, sesame and some soybean paste. It was creative and tasted good, but a little too heavy and salty for me. I opted for a ladylike and delicious Duchessa beer, paired with two un-ladylike slabs of pizza - a heavenly potato-rosemary combination and another with plump cherry tomatoes, oregano, hollandaise and fresh mozzarella. Sharing was tough and the service was wonderful - a winning combination. 

*Where to Have a Romantic Dinner*

Thoroughly battered from an afternoon touring the Vatican Museums and St. Peter's Basilica, we treated ourselves to a relaxing, romantic dinner al fresco at Obika. Although a global chain, Obika started ten years ago and has been a long-time partner of the Italian Slow Food Presidia, committing to using local products and traditions. Interestingly, contrary to what one may believe are staples of Italian cuisine, none of their dishes feature garlic or onions (I was dubious, Pem was thankful). We chose their Parlamento location - tucked into the corner of a tiny piazza, it felt more like a neighborhood locals' spot.  Our waiter, who excitedly shared he was also vegetarian, recommended us a refreshing chickpea and mint salad, which we paired with a wonderful smoked mozzarella and grilled vegetable pizza. Everything went down smooth and easy, and no one remembered the missing garlic or onions at all.

*Where to Find Breakfast and Snacks for the Train to Naples*

After Katie Parla's Romeo recommendation, I decided to also follow her advice on pastries and baked goods - Roscioli. A deli/bakery with a separate restaurant, Roscioli is basically a carb-lovers' dream. Breads, pastries, and other carb-y goodness piled atop one another, smelling fresh and inviting on our last morning in Rome. We (I) determine we are going to starve on the one-hour train ride to Naples and buy enough for breakfast, lunch and dinner for the next two days. And even then, I wish I had bought more of their pizzette rustiche - mini tarts with a dollop of the most delicious tomato sauce I've ever had. Even soggy and crushed from the train ride, these were delectable. And for more days than probably recommended, we kept nibbling on their ricotta e spinaci torta, a heavy, quiche-shaped pastry that was actually much bigger, and more delicious, than it looked.

*Where to Buy Local Food Products/Gifts*

On our way to the Vatican (before the hangry phase kicked in), we stumbled upon a cute shop in Trastevere that I ended up buying basically all of my gifts from. La Cardellina is a bio/eco-friendly shop with citrus and herb-infused olive oils, organic honey grappa, and loads of natural beauty products. The fellow there was very friendly and enthusiastic about the products and the prices were right. Also, the bottles of honey, grappa, and olive oil come in various sizes so it's perfect for gift-giving to family and friends!

When in Rome...

What can one say about Italy that hasn't been said before? We had an incredible time traversing the land of abundant and stunning architecture, history and art, and sampling as many incredible wines, pizza and gelato as we dared. Over ten days, we took a Vespa tour of Rome, discovered Naples' underground scene, hiked to the crater of a volcano on the Aeolian island of Vulcano, and celebrated our friends' beautiful wedding in Reggio-Calabria.  It all went by like a flash as most vacations usually do. But I know now that my first trip to Italy will certainly not be my last! First up, some highlights from our four days in the Eternal City...

Central Rome in August feels a little bit like Washington, D.C. in summertime. Most locals have fled for more tranquil environs, and tourists, busloads of them, overtake the city. Perhaps this befalls the historically-blessed cities with culturally significant sites scattered in every neighborhood. The Pantheon, the Trevi Fountain, the Spanish Steps, the Colosseum - you can be completely clueless wandering Rome's Centro Storico and still stumble upon some grand, ancient edifice. Our Italian friend in Bangkok explained this was why Rome didn't have any central subway stations - every time they would start digging, they found another ancient ruin! This was perfect for us, since Pem and I usually have conflicting opinions about directions most of the time. 

There is no better way to get a sense of Rome than from the back of a Vespa. Our Scooteroma guides Ipatzio and Jacopo were safe and courteous drivers, and had a wealth of knowledge about their city. They showed us how the real Romans drink from the copious, and decorous, water fountains around the city -  instead of dipping your head down to drink, you plug the flow with a finger and sip from the stream of water that jets out from a small hole in the top of the nasone like a water fountain. Jacopo, a former history scholar, was particularly careful about accuracy. As we rested at the Porta San Sebastiano, he explained to us the cultural significance of the via Appia Antica, where it is said that Jesus appeared to St. Peter as he was fleeing the city and St. Peter asked him, "Domine, quo vadis?" Jesus replied, "I am going to Rome to be crucified again" after which St. Peter returned into the city and was promptly crucified. Pointing my finger down the road, I said, "Oh wow, so down this road is where it happened?" Jacopo replied with a shrug, "Well, maybe..."

The best part of our time in Rome was being able to walk everywhere and anywhere. In Bangkok, walking outdoors is usually brief and in designated areas. It was such a treat to meander the back lanes, discovering inspired street art, being quietly but carefully observed by the neighborhood cat's suspicious gaze, or tucking into a small bar for a glass of rose and being treated to complimentary, and delicious, slices of vegetarian pizza. The gelaterias every few blocks didn't hurt either, except that I still had to fit into my dress for the wedding!

Visiting St. Peter's Basilica, the Sistine Chapel and the Vatican museum were incredible, albeit overwhelming. Hundreds of tourists were waiting in line when we arrived early afternoon, and I was thankful for the Vatican museum's online booking system. However, the hordes hardly stopped from when we entered to when we left in the early evening, feet aching and minds reeling. But there would be those moments, like when you suddenly realize you're staring at Michelangelo's La Pieta or the beauty of the afternoon rays of sun streaming through the ornate, dark Basilica, to help you remember why you came in the first place.

 

 

Coming Soon...

...our Italian adventures last month in Rome, Naples, Vulcano and Reggio-Calabria. Stay tuned! 

Ciao Bella!

Does the photo make you hungry? I don't know about you but I can practically taste the charred, chewy dough and tangy tomato sauce. But I will have to resist until I arrive in the motherland. The motherland of pizza, that is!

In less than two weeks, Pem and I will be Italy-bound for our friends' wedding. We are so lucky to have friends who get hitched in awesome places. :-) This is my first time ever to Italy and per usual, I have spent an inordinate amount of time choosing where we'll be spending our precious few days. Our final itinerary starts in Rome, onto Naples (birthplace of pizza, no brainer), and then Vulcano in the Aeolian Islands before traveling onto Reggio-Calabria for the wedding. 

During my research, I've come across some great blogs with recommendations from locals and expats alike, shared below. Is it any surprise these are mainly food-focused? 

1. Parla Food. A long-time American expat in Rome, Katie Parla pretty much covers everything and anything you want to know about eating and drinking in Rome. She is a renowned local culinary authority and regularly does food tours. This blog offers particularly helpful information like which restaurants will be open during August in Rome and features mouthwatering photos (the photo above is hers). She even has an app for roaming travelers to find nearby restaurants/bars/gelaterias. 
2. Rome Digest. Top local F&B experts, including Parla, share their recommendations on where to eat, drink, shop and learn in the Eternal City. 
3. Surviving in Italy. Mostly tongue-in-cheek observations of an American expat on the realities of living la dolce vita.

And of course, please feel free to send me any recommendations of things to see/eat/do! 

Bangkok's Coup Season

It's already been over six months since Pierre and I arrived in Bangkok. And nearly two months since I went part-time with my job. It's always astounding how quickly the days pass. I'm disappointed that I haven't been able to write more here in recent months, but I'm hoping that will change soon. 

These past few months have been filled with travel, Thai New Year celebrations, spending time with family, making new friends and re-discovering Asia's City of Angels. Bangkok has been an interesting place to be during the past half year, especially over the last week. A lot about Thailand has been revealed through the ongoing political crisis that has kept the country on its toes since last October. It's been an excellent crash course on Thailand's political and social situation!

This past weekend was the first time that I've had to worry about getting home before curfew in about a decade (!). Now past the "roaring" phase of my twenties, I'll admit I'm somewhat pleased there's a military order backing my homebody nightlife. So what is there to do in the sweltering Big Mango when a coup's been declared and a curfew is in effect? 

DO - Check out Bangkok's happening coffee shop scene. Funky cafes with artisanal pastries and latte art are popping up all over the city. My new fave is Casa Lapin on Sukhumvit Soi 26 with comfy, copious seating, free wi-fi, a mouthwatering pastry display and creamy, ice-cold lattes. Your daily buzz never looked so hip. 

DO - Check the news and/or Twitter feeds (such as Richard Barrow's) for updates about the political situation before heading out of the house/hotel in the morning. The security situation can change literally overnight and areas that may have been fine to visit yesterday may not be safe today.

DON'T - Let anyone persuade you that key tourist sites such as the Emerald Buddha or Grand Palace complex are closed. These con guys try their schtick on all tourist-looking types to rope them into an elaborate gem scam all year round, but may take advantage of the uncertain security situation to further convince victims they are "helping" them. Check the place out yourself first and never trust a tuk-tuk driver that will take a fare lower than 100 baht unless you're that confident about your bargaining skills!

DO - Stay indoors as much as possible. The humidity and heat are not to be reckoned with, especially during mid-day when you break a sweat before you even step outside. Pay a visit to the Bangkok Art and Cultural Centre (BACC) or an art space like Speedy Grandma (I just love their name!). The Thailand Creative and Design Centre (TCDC) in the Emporium Mall is great for marketing and design buffs. TCDC has a lovely library and workspace, design exhibition space and store with unique, local products that make great gifts. 

DON'T - Attempt to visit an anti-coup or other protest site or take #selfies with armed soldiers. Though the city is mostly safe and calm, you can end up being in the wrong place at the wrong time in the blink of an eye. Stay up to date on what areas of the city to avoid and stay well away! 

DO - Try your hand at Thai cooking! Learn all the fragrant, exotic spices that go into crowd favorites such as green curry, papaya salad and tom yum soup. The best part is that you have total control over the spice level and you get to enjoy it all afterward! The Blue Elephant is one of Bangkok's oldest, most prestigious culinary institutions but there are several more now around the city for differing tastes and budgets. 

DO - Stop by for a refreshing tipple at one of Bangkok's many watering holes during early evening - chances are, there's a happy hour deal. Pomelo margaritas at Opposite Mess Hall, bespoke cocktails at U.N.C.L.E passion fruit pisco sours at Above Eleven, and tamarind margaritas at Maya are some of the best drinks I've had in this city thus far.

DON'T - Knock back too many drinks. This may sound obvious but I've heard some scary stories about foreigners getting spiked drinks and almost being mugged just a few minutes away from home. It's not common, but drunk foreigners are pretty obvious targets. Especially late at night in small, dark sois. Sip slowly, stick with friends and always be aware of your surroundings!

 

DON'T - Miss curfew! It's true that the curfew enforcement has been fairly relaxed in most areas of the city and some bars and nightclubs will stay open well past 10 pm. Thailand isn't a place you want to get caught missing curfew. Those lame excuses for missing curfew didn't work on your parents and they won't work now. 

DO - Keep friends and family updated of your whereabouts. Every day. Don't assume no news is good news.

DON'T  - Try to talk serious politics with locals and exert your opinion as a foreigner. Light-hearted chatting about the situation is fine (like the terrible traffic!), but be sensitive and aware this is a tense time where the unsolicited opinions of passing foreigners are not particularly welcome. 

DO - Remember that a smile and a "kop khun kha" (thank you) will take you a long way here.

Bangkok is a sprawling, incredibly complex mess of an urban soul. Spend a little while and uncover some of its mysteries...

Happy New Year + 2013 "Best Of" Top Travels

 

Happy New Year, everyone! Wow, I cannot believe it's 2014. This past year has truly flown by. It's been a year of wonder, and I look forward to the adventures 2014 will surely bring! But before looking ahead, I'd like to take a quick look back on the "best of" 2013 moments. 

First up in this short series...

By far, this year brought me to more new destinations in a 12-month period than any other. I was delighted to spend 10 months in Vietnam, an absolutely captivating country, and to set foot onto the African continent for the first time. I also felt blessed to be able to see family and old friends in Bangkok, Singapore and Jakarta. But there are a few stand-out places which stirred the traveler's soul in me and yielded some unforgettable moments. 

1) Hoi An, Vietnam - This UNESCO World Heritage site's charm and sheer beauty is a photographer's delight. This city of lanterns, quite simply, illuminates the soul.

2) Hanoi, Vietnam - To me, Hanoi is the heart of Vietnam. The history, the ancient architecture, the sophistication in its street food and, of course, the society, are mesmerizing. Some travelers prefer "more exotic" destinations like Sapa, Halong Bay or Nha Trang. I think the more time you spend in Hanoi, the more its hidden treasures will be revealed to you.

3) Sapa, Vietnam - No doubt touristy, but its natural beauty is too breath-taking to miss. 

4) Meknes, Morocco - We only had a day and a half to explore, but Meknes seems to me a humbler version of Fes. The people are friendlier and the beauty less... polished than Fes or Marrakesh, in a good way.

To be continued next, with 2013 Top Eats...

Postcard from Chantaburi

Chantaburi seems like a sleepy little place at first, but it sure has a lot going on underneath its surface. Bordering Cambodia, this eastern province has distinctly European and Vietnamese influences in its architectural and culinary history. A centuries old gem trading hub, jewels aren't the only attraction in town. Chantaburi is also the fruitbasket of the nation, and increasingly the world*, for tropical fruits such as durian, mangosteen and sala. The soft, tangy flesh of mangosteen is too good to resist. I probably ate my weight in mangosteen in Chantaburi!

The small streets of the old town are charming and easy to walk. Down one block, you may be enticed by the overwhelming scent of freshly baked khanom khai (think smaller, rounder madeleines). Down another, you may spot some decidedly funky street art and hip little cafes. This sleepy town has its fair share of small surprises that won't fail to put a smile on your face. And well, if it doesn't, you clearly haven't been eating enough fruit!

*According to our friend Wiki, in 2000, Chantaburi alone contributed 27% of the world's durian production!

Dolma Tip Jar: Get Jetset

Inspired by this recent CNN article on "travel don'ts" (thanks for sending, Dad!), I thought I'd share a few travel tips I've accumulated across the years. I've done my fair share of international travel, ever since taking my first international flight just after my first birthday. No matter how long ago you were first bitten by that travel bug, those pangs for adventure never seem to fade entirely. 

A true adventure is never without the possibility of danger. It's about leaving all that is comfortable and familiar behind for a destination that beckons with whispered promises of mystery and magic. But who can be excited for the mystery and the magic when, upon arrival, you discover that you don't have enough cash for your visa, your lotion has exploded all over the contents of your carry-on, and the only local contact numbers you have are plugged into your cell phone, which is now battery dead? Don't be that guy. 

Here's the thing - all those debonair looking travelers who seem to have it together effortlessly are just really well prepared. Or their assistants are. Put in the leg work on the front end and spare yourself the tedious crap. Then when you're on the road, you have the energy and flexible attitude to deal with the larger dilemmas that sometime come with traveling. Like what to do when a monkey sinks his teeth into your leg. Or how to properly respond to a young, drunk armed soldier who feels like messing with a foreigner's mind. Or find out the least guilt-inducing way to handle encounters with the tiny, undernourished and yet seemingly indefatigable street kids who ask you for money, candy, pencils, every step of your walk through town. Or figuring out whether you can ever return to your former life or if you wouldn't rather prefer wandering for the rest of your days. 

"To feel at home, stay at home" - Clifton Fadiman, Paper Lanterns

1) Photocopy your passport (and visa page, if applicable). Keep one or two copies for yourself (separate from your actual passport), keep a copy at home and give a copy to a friend or family member. Just don't do it right before you hop in a taxi for the airport and leave your actual passport lying on the scanner bed at home (yep, I did that). 

2) Put liquids and gels in a zip-lock bag. Not only does it help you figure out whether your expensive face cream might get tossed by airport security, but you'll protect your other packed items from damage if a bottle breaks or bursts in transit.

3) If you're traveling on business (or any trip, really), always pack one proper outfit in your carry-on. If your checked luggage doesn't arrive to your destination at the same time you do, you'll at least have one other outfit to wear to that first day of meetings. Avoid spending your first day in a new place having to go clothes shopping. Unless that's what you enjoy, of course. 

4) Always carry at least one crisp, clean $100 USD bill in case of emergencies. I prefer to carry at least two per traveler, in separate bags. ATM cards get eaten. Credit cards get denied. Just have a backup method of payment. Because we all know - no money, no funny.

5) Don't assume you can buy a visa upon arrival. Check the requirements and have the right application materials, or better, get it in advance from the Embassy. 

6) Always know where you are sleeping your first night (at least!). There's a lot to take in when you first arrive to a destination (even if it's a relatively familiar one to you). The last thing you want to do after a long flight is hotel hopping to see if they have any availability.

7) Have a list of local emergency contacts handy. Before you leave, ask friends and family if they know anyone living in your destination city or country. Troll Facebook. The world is getting smaller, so your chances are high. At least have the address and contact number of your Embassy and your emergency contacts at home written down. Like with a pen, on a piece of paper. Phones can die, get stolen or fall out of back pockets and drown in the toilet. Again, do yourself a favor and have a back-up.

8) Don't put all your cash and your passport in the same place. And for Pete's sake, don't put your passport in your wallet. I did that. My wallet got stolen, and instead of just dealing with foregone cash and credit cards (which sucks), I had to deal with a stolen passport (which sucks even more). This is where a photocopy of your passport comes in handy. 

9) If you're traveling internationally, get to the airport at least two hours before your flight. Ok, I get to airports freakishly early compared to my colleagues and most other people I know. But you know what? This practice has given me peace of mind, and in some cases, second chances. I'm almost ashamed to say this as such a frequent traveler, but I've gone to the wrong airport before twice. I didn't check my itinerary closely enough, I assumed I was leaving out of one airport and when I got to the check-in counter, they couldn't find my itinerary. But I had enough time to find a taxi and get to the correct airport and make my original flight.

10) Don't assume that you can get away with doing foolhardy or illegal things just because you're a foreigner. The chances of doing either increases proportionately with the amount of drinking you do. Be respectful and remember you're a guest. Likewise, don't assume that every open smile is an honest one and listen to your instincts. Maintaining a healthy sense of perspective is key (i.e. do you really want to make a huge fuss over being cheated $1?).

11) Carry mild pain relievers (Advil, Tylenol, paracemetol), Pepto-Bismol and Imodium, plus any required medications with you. Pharmacies may not have or understand what you need. If you do need a pharmacy, try to go to one that is connected to or near a hospital and has other customers in line! 

12) If you're going to hit the local street food scene your first day, go to a place with a line, or full tables. Chances are higher that the food is tasty and safe.

13) Don't see a new place entirely through the lens of your camera or video-cam. Sounds funny coming from a photo blogger, but I mean it. No moment of your life can truly, entirely be captured by any type of film. Take a break and just breathe it in.

14) Last, but certainly not least, keep a smile and an open mind. You're having an adventure! There will be mishaps. There may even be some danger. A real adventure isn't supposed to be easy. But you can always, always count on a once of a lifetime experience after which you will never be the same.

Did I miss any big ones? Or not spontaneous enough? What are some of your tips for travelers?

Scenes from Sapa

After a few weeks at home in Hanoi, Pem and I started to feel the familiar stirrings of wanderlust. We decided now was the time to see Sapa. In the misty hours early one Friday morning, our overnight train delivered us, groggy and aching from our rumbling slumber, to Lao Cai station in Northern Vietnam. We were so far north in fact, that we were nearly at the China border. We hopped into a shuttle with some other foreigners and headed southwest towards Sapa.

A former French hill station in the early 20th century, Sapa is nestled within the mountains at an altitude of 1,600 m. Up above, mist swirled around craggly peaks. Down below, the rushing Red River wound between verdant rice paddies ready for harvest. It was rainy and humid during most of our visit, not the cool weather we had been hoping for (during winter months, there is frost and sometimes even snow!). But when the grey skies broke and the sun shone upon the valley for a few hours every afternoon, the views were well worth the wait. 

In the mornings, our walks around town were peppered with persistent, but friendly, ethnic minority women plying their wares. In the afternoons, after lunch at The Hill Station or Baguette et Chocolat, we set about the surrounding villages by foot or by motorbike. In the evenings, we relaxed with some drinks at the Hmong Sisters Bar and watched male foreigners playing pool with two lovely, but ruthless, local women (the Hmong sisters?) who would flip their waist-long hair over their shoulders as they prepared to sink the winning shot. In the cool night air, we walked the quiet streets to our hotel, Sapa Rooms, and in no time, we surrounded ourselves with the gauzy mosquito net and drifted into the haze of dreams.

On our last evening, we rushed to the edge of town to try and catch the sunset. The road ended and the sun was setting just around the edge of the next peak, out of view. As we turned around to return into town, beyond the dark and quiet valley, we saw one, then another, then another, countless bursts of lightning in the distance. The bolts of lightning were so forceful they lit the valley below for just a few seconds at a time. I tried to capture what we were seeing on video, but it hardly did the experience justice. There was this feeling, as if we were witnessing a secret communion between heaven and earth. There are just a handful of moments in life, if you're lucky, where you're struck by the sheer immensity and unmistakeable majesty of that unfolding before you. This was one of those moments.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Goûts du Maroc

Sweet, juicy orange slices à la cannelle before boarding our train to Marrakech - Plump purple and yellow olives, bursting tartly in our mouths as we watched the evening scene unfold in the Meknes' zoological garden - Fighting for the last miniature crispy briouates oozing with warm Nutella after a morning spent exploring le Jardin Majorelle - Sampling spoon after spoon of herbed honeys in Casablanca's old quarter - A local Meknes mother stopping in the street to let us try freshly made kaab el Ghazal, still warm from her oven - Savoring homemade confiture d'abricot and tangy yoghurt on spongy pancakes in a quiet olive grove - Sipping hot, sweet mint tea with almond cookies on the roof, as dusk descended over Fes and the evening calls to prayer began, one after another after another, the chorus enveloping us until there was no other sound.

Last night Pem and I went to Hanoi's one and only Moroccan restaurant, Le Marrakech. Our dinner brought me back to these favorite gastronomic memories from our adventure in Morocco two months ago. If you were able to read that previous paragraph closely enough, without your tastebuds urging your mind elsewhere, you may have noticed that not once did I mention 'tajine' or 'couscous'. Don't get me wrong - we had some tasty couscous and tajines during our trip. However, being vegetarian severely limited our tajine and couscous choices and though some restaurants offered slight variations, I thought they all tasted pretty much the same. Most lunches and dinners hardly left a lasting impression. Rather, it was at the breakfast table, in the souk, or during tea time that I had some of my most vivid encounters with the tastes of Morocco.

Below are a few tidbits, if you'd like to see...