When in Rome...

What can one say about Italy that hasn't been said before? We had an incredible time traversing the land of abundant and stunning architecture, history and art, and sampling as many incredible wines, pizza and gelato as we dared. Over ten days, we took a Vespa tour of Rome, discovered Naples' underground scene, hiked to the crater of a volcano on the Aeolian island of Vulcano, and celebrated our friends' beautiful wedding in Reggio-Calabria.  It all went by like a flash as most vacations usually do. But I know now that my first trip to Italy will certainly not be my last! First up, some highlights from our four days in the Eternal City...

Central Rome in August feels a little bit like Washington, D.C. in summertime. Most locals have fled for more tranquil environs, and tourists, busloads of them, overtake the city. Perhaps this befalls the historically-blessed cities with culturally significant sites scattered in every neighborhood. The Pantheon, the Trevi Fountain, the Spanish Steps, the Colosseum - you can be completely clueless wandering Rome's Centro Storico and still stumble upon some grand, ancient edifice. Our Italian friend in Bangkok explained this was why Rome didn't have any central subway stations - every time they would start digging, they found another ancient ruin! This was perfect for us, since Pem and I usually have conflicting opinions about directions most of the time. 

There is no better way to get a sense of Rome than from the back of a Vespa. Our Scooteroma guides Ipatzio and Jacopo were safe and courteous drivers, and had a wealth of knowledge about their city. They showed us how the real Romans drink from the copious, and decorous, water fountains around the city -  instead of dipping your head down to drink, you plug the flow with a finger and sip from the stream of water that jets out from a small hole in the top of the nasone like a water fountain. Jacopo, a former history scholar, was particularly careful about accuracy. As we rested at the Porta San Sebastiano, he explained to us the cultural significance of the via Appia Antica, where it is said that Jesus appeared to St. Peter as he was fleeing the city and St. Peter asked him, "Domine, quo vadis?" Jesus replied, "I am going to Rome to be crucified again" after which St. Peter returned into the city and was promptly crucified. Pointing my finger down the road, I said, "Oh wow, so down this road is where it happened?" Jacopo replied with a shrug, "Well, maybe..."

The best part of our time in Rome was being able to walk everywhere and anywhere. In Bangkok, walking outdoors is usually brief and in designated areas. It was such a treat to meander the back lanes, discovering inspired street art, being quietly but carefully observed by the neighborhood cat's suspicious gaze, or tucking into a small bar for a glass of rose and being treated to complimentary, and delicious, slices of vegetarian pizza. The gelaterias every few blocks didn't hurt either, except that I still had to fit into my dress for the wedding!

Visiting St. Peter's Basilica, the Sistine Chapel and the Vatican museum were incredible, albeit overwhelming. Hundreds of tourists were waiting in line when we arrived early afternoon, and I was thankful for the Vatican museum's online booking system. However, the hordes hardly stopped from when we entered to when we left in the early evening, feet aching and minds reeling. But there would be those moments, like when you suddenly realize you're staring at Michelangelo's La Pieta or the beauty of the afternoon rays of sun streaming through the ornate, dark Basilica, to help you remember why you came in the first place.

 

 

Coming Soon...

...our Italian adventures last month in Rome, Naples, Vulcano and Reggio-Calabria. Stay tuned! 

Ciao Bella!

Does the photo make you hungry? I don't know about you but I can practically taste the charred, chewy dough and tangy tomato sauce. But I will have to resist until I arrive in the motherland. The motherland of pizza, that is!

In less than two weeks, Pem and I will be Italy-bound for our friends' wedding. We are so lucky to have friends who get hitched in awesome places. :-) This is my first time ever to Italy and per usual, I have spent an inordinate amount of time choosing where we'll be spending our precious few days. Our final itinerary starts in Rome, onto Naples (birthplace of pizza, no brainer), and then Vulcano in the Aeolian Islands before traveling onto Reggio-Calabria for the wedding. 

During my research, I've come across some great blogs with recommendations from locals and expats alike, shared below. Is it any surprise these are mainly food-focused? 

1. Parla Food. A long-time American expat in Rome, Katie Parla pretty much covers everything and anything you want to know about eating and drinking in Rome. She is a renowned local culinary authority and regularly does food tours. This blog offers particularly helpful information like which restaurants will be open during August in Rome and features mouthwatering photos (the photo above is hers). She even has an app for roaming travelers to find nearby restaurants/bars/gelaterias. 
2. Rome Digest. Top local F&B experts, including Parla, share their recommendations on where to eat, drink, shop and learn in the Eternal City. 
3. Surviving in Italy. Mostly tongue-in-cheek observations of an American expat on the realities of living la dolce vita.

And of course, please feel free to send me any recommendations of things to see/eat/do! 

In the Corridors of Kings

Back in February, a long-awaited travel dream of mine was finally fulfilled. Angkor Wat was everything I thought it would be - stunning feats of artistry and architecture that speak volumes about those ancient civilizations in a way that no book can. To see up close the intricate bas-reliefs carved centuries ago, and then refurbished and re-assembled in more recent decades, is incredibly powerful. I didn't always find ruins so interesting, especially in Southeast Asia where many ancient temples all start looking the same after awhile (to the untrained eye at least!). But recently, I've been fascinated by imagining what these places tell us about our predecessors, and about ourselves.

On our last morning in Siem Reap, we took a bumpy tuk-tuk ride out to Banteay Srei. We clattered along as other tuk-tuks, cars and cyclists overtook us. We passed small villages of stilt houses with immaculately swept dirt yards and chickens strutting about. Palm oil simmered in stainless steel bowls. perched on clay stoves by the roadside. The air was perfumed with the scent of the eucalyptus trees that lined the road. It was one of those wonderful moments that remind us why we travel.

In addition to Angkor Wat, Bayon and Ta Phrom, Banteay Srei is not to be missed. Though much smaller than the others, the intricacy of the carvings is unparalleled among the temples. The pink sandstone burns beautifully as the sun rises. Despite the gaggle of tourists around taking selfies, it wasn't too difficult to imagine the sophistication and spirituality of the kingdom that built Banteay Srei back in the 10th Century.

I pondered this as a taxi whisked Pem and I back into glittering downtown Bangkok from the airport later that evening. In another thousand years, what will the monuments and structures of our era say about us? With daily news about the effects of climate change on our planet, I'm less certain our lasting legacy will be one we would claim with pride.

Some photos below from my trip, if you'd like to see... 

"Myth: we have to save the earth. Frankly, the earth doesn't need to be saved. 

Nature doesn't give a hoot if human beings are here or not. The planet has survived cataclysmic and catastrophic changes for millions upon millions of years. Over that time, it is widely believed, 99 percent of all species have come and gone while the planet has remained. Saving the environment is really about saving our environment - making it safe for ourselves, our children, and the world as we know it. If more people saw the issue as one of saving themselves, we would probably see increased motivation and commitment to do so" 

- Robert M. Lilienfeld & William L. Rathje, The Sun Magazine

Best of 2013 - Top Eats

With new places always come encounters with new, unusual flavors. Travelers are rewarded with tasty experiences that cannot be found elsewhere. Som tum (papaya salad) eaten while sitting on the sidewalk of a busy Bangkok soi is not the same as som tum eaten in your neighborhood Thai restaurant (it's probably a fair bit spicier too!). So my top eats from 2013 are not so much about the tastiest things I've eaten, or the fanciest restaurants I've been to, but more about my best food-related memories. 

1) Crunching into a freshly baked banh mi (above), after we stumbled upon a bakery while roaming Hoi An's old city. Nothing can compare with this light-as-air baguette, still warm from the oven - and it cost about 10 cents.  

2) After a full day of touring Fes, nursing warm, fragrant mint tea and nibbling on buttery almond biscuits on the rooftop of our riad and hearing the calls to prayer from the medina's one hundred mosques build and blend until there is no other sound in the evening sky.

3) Tucking into a steaming plate of stir-fried noodles with crunchy spring onions and tofu, sitting amidst rice paddies and soaking in the sweeping scenes of the verdant Sapa valley below. 

4) Sharing a gigantic paper dosa (nearly two feet tall!) and fragrant, richly flavored curries with Pem and my parents at Hanoi's best Indian restaurant, Namaste, whose veg-friendly food we enjoyed at least once a week! 

5) Savouring a slice of my mum's incredible bourbon pecan pumpkin pie after a family lunch once I returned home from a challenging and draining work assignment. 

Now that this trip down memory lane has my mouth watering and my mind wandering, I'll leave it at that. Up next are some of the top drinks I've downed in 2013!

Happy New Year + 2013 "Best Of" Top Travels

 

Happy New Year, everyone! Wow, I cannot believe it's 2014. This past year has truly flown by. It's been a year of wonder, and I look forward to the adventures 2014 will surely bring! But before looking ahead, I'd like to take a quick look back on the "best of" 2013 moments. 

First up in this short series...

By far, this year brought me to more new destinations in a 12-month period than any other. I was delighted to spend 10 months in Vietnam, an absolutely captivating country, and to set foot onto the African continent for the first time. I also felt blessed to be able to see family and old friends in Bangkok, Singapore and Jakarta. But there are a few stand-out places which stirred the traveler's soul in me and yielded some unforgettable moments. 

1) Hoi An, Vietnam - This UNESCO World Heritage site's charm and sheer beauty is a photographer's delight. This city of lanterns, quite simply, illuminates the soul.

2) Hanoi, Vietnam - To me, Hanoi is the heart of Vietnam. The history, the ancient architecture, the sophistication in its street food and, of course, the society, are mesmerizing. Some travelers prefer "more exotic" destinations like Sapa, Halong Bay or Nha Trang. I think the more time you spend in Hanoi, the more its hidden treasures will be revealed to you.

3) Sapa, Vietnam - No doubt touristy, but its natural beauty is too breath-taking to miss. 

4) Meknes, Morocco - We only had a day and a half to explore, but Meknes seems to me a humbler version of Fes. The people are friendlier and the beauty less... polished than Fes or Marrakesh, in a good way.

To be continued next, with 2013 Top Eats...

Postcard from Chantaburi

Chantaburi seems like a sleepy little place at first, but it sure has a lot going on underneath its surface. Bordering Cambodia, this eastern province has distinctly European and Vietnamese influences in its architectural and culinary history. A centuries old gem trading hub, jewels aren't the only attraction in town. Chantaburi is also the fruitbasket of the nation, and increasingly the world*, for tropical fruits such as durian, mangosteen and sala. The soft, tangy flesh of mangosteen is too good to resist. I probably ate my weight in mangosteen in Chantaburi!

The small streets of the old town are charming and easy to walk. Down one block, you may be enticed by the overwhelming scent of freshly baked khanom khai (think smaller, rounder madeleines). Down another, you may spot some decidedly funky street art and hip little cafes. This sleepy town has its fair share of small surprises that won't fail to put a smile on your face. And well, if it doesn't, you clearly haven't been eating enough fruit!

*According to our friend Wiki, in 2000, Chantaburi alone contributed 27% of the world's durian production!

Time for Transitions...

 

Well, my friends, where shall I begin? These last few months have been of the sort that start normally enough, perhaps with hints at occasional bouts of boredom. But soon, life grabs you by the lapels, takes you for a wild ride, and then, not a second too late, drops you off where you were actually heading all along. Home.

After ten months and ten days living in Vietnam, last week Pem and I moved to Bangkok for reasons both personal and professional. The winds of change urged us on, with their heady scent mixed of anticipation, promise and always, a touch of sadness. We've been busy unpacking and getting settled, but some photos from recent travels to Chantaburi and Ho Chi Minh City are coming soon, as well as a post on saying goodbye to Hanoi. Let the adventures continue!

Dolma Tip Jar: Get Jetset

Inspired by this recent CNN article on "travel don'ts" (thanks for sending, Dad!), I thought I'd share a few travel tips I've accumulated across the years. I've done my fair share of international travel, ever since taking my first international flight just after my first birthday. No matter how long ago you were first bitten by that travel bug, those pangs for adventure never seem to fade entirely. 

A true adventure is never without the possibility of danger. It's about leaving all that is comfortable and familiar behind for a destination that beckons with whispered promises of mystery and magic. But who can be excited for the mystery and the magic when, upon arrival, you discover that you don't have enough cash for your visa, your lotion has exploded all over the contents of your carry-on, and the only local contact numbers you have are plugged into your cell phone, which is now battery dead? Don't be that guy. 

Here's the thing - all those debonair looking travelers who seem to have it together effortlessly are just really well prepared. Or their assistants are. Put in the leg work on the front end and spare yourself the tedious crap. Then when you're on the road, you have the energy and flexible attitude to deal with the larger dilemmas that sometime come with traveling. Like what to do when a monkey sinks his teeth into your leg. Or how to properly respond to a young, drunk armed soldier who feels like messing with a foreigner's mind. Or find out the least guilt-inducing way to handle encounters with the tiny, undernourished and yet seemingly indefatigable street kids who ask you for money, candy, pencils, every step of your walk through town. Or figuring out whether you can ever return to your former life or if you wouldn't rather prefer wandering for the rest of your days. 

"To feel at home, stay at home" - Clifton Fadiman, Paper Lanterns

1) Photocopy your passport (and visa page, if applicable). Keep one or two copies for yourself (separate from your actual passport), keep a copy at home and give a copy to a friend or family member. Just don't do it right before you hop in a taxi for the airport and leave your actual passport lying on the scanner bed at home (yep, I did that). 

2) Put liquids and gels in a zip-lock bag. Not only does it help you figure out whether your expensive face cream might get tossed by airport security, but you'll protect your other packed items from damage if a bottle breaks or bursts in transit.

3) If you're traveling on business (or any trip, really), always pack one proper outfit in your carry-on. If your checked luggage doesn't arrive to your destination at the same time you do, you'll at least have one other outfit to wear to that first day of meetings. Avoid spending your first day in a new place having to go clothes shopping. Unless that's what you enjoy, of course. 

4) Always carry at least one crisp, clean $100 USD bill in case of emergencies. I prefer to carry at least two per traveler, in separate bags. ATM cards get eaten. Credit cards get denied. Just have a backup method of payment. Because we all know - no money, no funny.

5) Don't assume you can buy a visa upon arrival. Check the requirements and have the right application materials, or better, get it in advance from the Embassy. 

6) Always know where you are sleeping your first night (at least!). There's a lot to take in when you first arrive to a destination (even if it's a relatively familiar one to you). The last thing you want to do after a long flight is hotel hopping to see if they have any availability.

7) Have a list of local emergency contacts handy. Before you leave, ask friends and family if they know anyone living in your destination city or country. Troll Facebook. The world is getting smaller, so your chances are high. At least have the address and contact number of your Embassy and your emergency contacts at home written down. Like with a pen, on a piece of paper. Phones can die, get stolen or fall out of back pockets and drown in the toilet. Again, do yourself a favor and have a back-up.

8) Don't put all your cash and your passport in the same place. And for Pete's sake, don't put your passport in your wallet. I did that. My wallet got stolen, and instead of just dealing with foregone cash and credit cards (which sucks), I had to deal with a stolen passport (which sucks even more). This is where a photocopy of your passport comes in handy. 

9) If you're traveling internationally, get to the airport at least two hours before your flight. Ok, I get to airports freakishly early compared to my colleagues and most other people I know. But you know what? This practice has given me peace of mind, and in some cases, second chances. I'm almost ashamed to say this as such a frequent traveler, but I've gone to the wrong airport before twice. I didn't check my itinerary closely enough, I assumed I was leaving out of one airport and when I got to the check-in counter, they couldn't find my itinerary. But I had enough time to find a taxi and get to the correct airport and make my original flight.

10) Don't assume that you can get away with doing foolhardy or illegal things just because you're a foreigner. The chances of doing either increases proportionately with the amount of drinking you do. Be respectful and remember you're a guest. Likewise, don't assume that every open smile is an honest one and listen to your instincts. Maintaining a healthy sense of perspective is key (i.e. do you really want to make a huge fuss over being cheated $1?).

11) Carry mild pain relievers (Advil, Tylenol, paracemetol), Pepto-Bismol and Imodium, plus any required medications with you. Pharmacies may not have or understand what you need. If you do need a pharmacy, try to go to one that is connected to or near a hospital and has other customers in line! 

12) If you're going to hit the local street food scene your first day, go to a place with a line, or full tables. Chances are higher that the food is tasty and safe.

13) Don't see a new place entirely through the lens of your camera or video-cam. Sounds funny coming from a photo blogger, but I mean it. No moment of your life can truly, entirely be captured by any type of film. Take a break and just breathe it in.

14) Last, but certainly not least, keep a smile and an open mind. You're having an adventure! There will be mishaps. There may even be some danger. A real adventure isn't supposed to be easy. But you can always, always count on a once of a lifetime experience after which you will never be the same.

Did I miss any big ones? Or not spontaneous enough? What are some of your tips for travelers?

Scenes from Sapa

After a few weeks at home in Hanoi, Pem and I started to feel the familiar stirrings of wanderlust. We decided now was the time to see Sapa. In the misty hours early one Friday morning, our overnight train delivered us, groggy and aching from our rumbling slumber, to Lao Cai station in Northern Vietnam. We were so far north in fact, that we were nearly at the China border. We hopped into a shuttle with some other foreigners and headed southwest towards Sapa.

A former French hill station in the early 20th century, Sapa is nestled within the mountains at an altitude of 1,600 m. Up above, mist swirled around craggly peaks. Down below, the rushing Red River wound between verdant rice paddies ready for harvest. It was rainy and humid during most of our visit, not the cool weather we had been hoping for (during winter months, there is frost and sometimes even snow!). But when the grey skies broke and the sun shone upon the valley for a few hours every afternoon, the views were well worth the wait. 

In the mornings, our walks around town were peppered with persistent, but friendly, ethnic minority women plying their wares. In the afternoons, after lunch at The Hill Station or Baguette et Chocolat, we set about the surrounding villages by foot or by motorbike. In the evenings, we relaxed with some drinks at the Hmong Sisters Bar and watched male foreigners playing pool with two lovely, but ruthless, local women (the Hmong sisters?) who would flip their waist-long hair over their shoulders as they prepared to sink the winning shot. In the cool night air, we walked the quiet streets to our hotel, Sapa Rooms, and in no time, we surrounded ourselves with the gauzy mosquito net and drifted into the haze of dreams.

On our last evening, we rushed to the edge of town to try and catch the sunset. The road ended and the sun was setting just around the edge of the next peak, out of view. As we turned around to return into town, beyond the dark and quiet valley, we saw one, then another, then another, countless bursts of lightning in the distance. The bolts of lightning were so forceful they lit the valley below for just a few seconds at a time. I tried to capture what we were seeing on video, but it hardly did the experience justice. There was this feeling, as if we were witnessing a secret communion between heaven and earth. There are just a handful of moments in life, if you're lucky, where you're struck by the sheer immensity and unmistakeable majesty of that unfolding before you. This was one of those moments.