Flashback Friday - Breakfast

Just the other day, my mum turned to me and said, "I'm sorry for the frozen foods we fed you as a kid. We didn't know any better back then!" I can't recall what compelled her to say that, but she's referring to the microwave mac n' cheese, french bread pizza and Toaster Strudel they bought so I could make it for myself when my mum or dad were traveling for work. A typical breakfast was a Toaster Strudel or two, and maybe a glass of OJ. At my grandma's house during the summer, my daily breakfast would be two eggs over easy, with buttered toast and grape jelly. To this day, that combination of salty egg yolk and sticky, sweet grape jelly makes my mouth water, and I recall the days I sat in my grandparents' dark, cool kitchen while my grandma sipped her vanilla Slimfast and smoked her second or third cigarette of the day. 

Now my breakfasts are more varied, pastries and coffee one week, homemade juice and greek yogurt the next. But it's interesting to recall those childhood breakfasts and what impressions last longest about certain types of food. I remember being surprised when Pem explained in France that eggs aren't commonly eaten for breakfast, or finding salad at the breakfast buffet in Asian hotels. 

Check out this NYT magazine article, which takes a look at what kids around the world typically eat for breakfast. Which one comes closest to what you ate as a kid?

(Photo credit: NYT article photographer, Hannah Whittaker)

When in Rome, Mangia! - Best Eats

 

Silky pumpkin and sage custard. Crumbly sour cherry and ricotta frolla. Fragrant, thin slices of potato rosemary pizza. These are some of the new tastes I encountered in Rome, a food-obsessed city that has delicious vegetarian options at reasonable prices (Traveling to Italy as SE Asia resident means everything seems comparatively expensive. Except for wine. Thank god for small miracles.). Here are some of my recommendations for veg-friendly feasting, guilt-free gelato and gifts for foodies.

*Where to Unwind with Friends for Hours over Wine and Good Conversation*

On our first night, we had dinner with Sebastiano and Diana, who we met via our Italian friend in Bangkok. They brought us to Meridionale in the hip Trastevere area across the river from Rome's centro storico. Sebastiano explained that Trastevere is so interesting because it's right in the heart of the city, yet it's built just like some tiny villages in the Italian countryside. This trattoria, tucked away from the bustling crowds of tourists, is instantly welcoming with its low-key but funky interior. This is where the aforementioned pumpkin and sage custard happened, incredibly creamy and bursting with rich flavor. After the antipasti, I had a decadent, perfectly peppery cacio e pepe with a lovely Italian white wine that helped cut the richness. 

Over the meal, we discussed Rome recommendations, talked about what it's like to live in Bangkok, and how challenging it is for young professionals in Italy to find suitable jobs these days. But despite the difficult times, it seemed like everyone still recognized the importance of good food, drink and company. The flow of patrons to Meridionale's few tables never stopped, even as our jet lag came crashing down and we had to leave. By then, the streets were much quieter, emptier as we strolled back to the river and I got a sense of what Sebastiano meant about the tiny Italian village. It was undoubtedly the perfect way to kick-off our exploration of Rome. Thanks, Sebastiano and Diana!

*Where to Enjoy Guilt-Free Gelato*

After our Vespa tour of the city the next afternoon, we were well overdue for some gelato. On our way back to the apartment (AirBnB = best decision ever), we popped into Cambiovita - an organic, vegetarian/vegan cafe and gelateria. Vegan options were abound, including vegan pistachio, dark chocolate and hazelnut, in addition to the usual fruit-based gelato. I went for a sour cherry and (non-vegan) cream combination that absolutely hit the spot, especially after a morning spent on the back of a scooter in relentless sun. With a mission to promote healthy and smart eating, I figured Cambiovita was a good cause and as I daintily threw back the melted dregs of my cup, I promised to return the following day.

*Where to Fuel Up Before Visiting the Vatican*

Recommended by Italian food expert/blogger Katie Parla and her amazing food app, Romeo was a much needed treat after a long morning of spontaneous exploration devolved into two hangry people (okay, maybe only one) getting lost. This restaurant/deli offers just the fuel needed to face the hordes of tourists at the Vatican later that afternoon - huge slabs of varied pizza cut and weighed to order, fresh sandwiches on pillowy foccacia, and an interesting selection of wine and craft beers. Pem had a nice glass of wine wine with an Asian take on spaghetti - green beans, sesame and some soybean paste. It was creative and tasted good, but a little too heavy and salty for me. I opted for a ladylike and delicious Duchessa beer, paired with two un-ladylike slabs of pizza - a heavenly potato-rosemary combination and another with plump cherry tomatoes, oregano, hollandaise and fresh mozzarella. Sharing was tough and the service was wonderful - a winning combination. 

*Where to Have a Romantic Dinner*

Thoroughly battered from an afternoon touring the Vatican Museums and St. Peter's Basilica, we treated ourselves to a relaxing, romantic dinner al fresco at Obika. Although a global chain, Obika started ten years ago and has been a long-time partner of the Italian Slow Food Presidia, committing to using local products and traditions. Interestingly, contrary to what one may believe are staples of Italian cuisine, none of their dishes feature garlic or onions (I was dubious, Pem was thankful). We chose their Parlamento location - tucked into the corner of a tiny piazza, it felt more like a neighborhood locals' spot.  Our waiter, who excitedly shared he was also vegetarian, recommended us a refreshing chickpea and mint salad, which we paired with a wonderful smoked mozzarella and grilled vegetable pizza. Everything went down smooth and easy, and no one remembered the missing garlic or onions at all.

*Where to Find Breakfast and Snacks for the Train to Naples*

After Katie Parla's Romeo recommendation, I decided to also follow her advice on pastries and baked goods - Roscioli. A deli/bakery with a separate restaurant, Roscioli is basically a carb-lovers' dream. Breads, pastries, and other carb-y goodness piled atop one another, smelling fresh and inviting on our last morning in Rome. We (I) determine we are going to starve on the one-hour train ride to Naples and buy enough for breakfast, lunch and dinner for the next two days. And even then, I wish I had bought more of their pizzette rustiche - mini tarts with a dollop of the most delicious tomato sauce I've ever had. Even soggy and crushed from the train ride, these were delectable. And for more days than probably recommended, we kept nibbling on their ricotta e spinaci torta, a heavy, quiche-shaped pastry that was actually much bigger, and more delicious, than it looked.

*Where to Buy Local Food Products/Gifts*

On our way to the Vatican (before the hangry phase kicked in), we stumbled upon a cute shop in Trastevere that I ended up buying basically all of my gifts from. La Cardellina is a bio/eco-friendly shop with citrus and herb-infused olive oils, organic honey grappa, and loads of natural beauty products. The fellow there was very friendly and enthusiastic about the products and the prices were right. Also, the bottles of honey, grappa, and olive oil come in various sizes so it's perfect for gift-giving to family and friends!

When in Rome...

What can one say about Italy that hasn't been said before? We had an incredible time traversing the land of abundant and stunning architecture, history and art, and sampling as many incredible wines, pizza and gelato as we dared. Over ten days, we took a Vespa tour of Rome, discovered Naples' underground scene, hiked to the crater of a volcano on the Aeolian island of Vulcano, and celebrated our friends' beautiful wedding in Reggio-Calabria.  It all went by like a flash as most vacations usually do. But I know now that my first trip to Italy will certainly not be my last! First up, some highlights from our four days in the Eternal City...

Central Rome in August feels a little bit like Washington, D.C. in summertime. Most locals have fled for more tranquil environs, and tourists, busloads of them, overtake the city. Perhaps this befalls the historically-blessed cities with culturally significant sites scattered in every neighborhood. The Pantheon, the Trevi Fountain, the Spanish Steps, the Colosseum - you can be completely clueless wandering Rome's Centro Storico and still stumble upon some grand, ancient edifice. Our Italian friend in Bangkok explained this was why Rome didn't have any central subway stations - every time they would start digging, they found another ancient ruin! This was perfect for us, since Pem and I usually have conflicting opinions about directions most of the time. 

There is no better way to get a sense of Rome than from the back of a Vespa. Our Scooteroma guides Ipatzio and Jacopo were safe and courteous drivers, and had a wealth of knowledge about their city. They showed us how the real Romans drink from the copious, and decorous, water fountains around the city -  instead of dipping your head down to drink, you plug the flow with a finger and sip from the stream of water that jets out from a small hole in the top of the nasone like a water fountain. Jacopo, a former history scholar, was particularly careful about accuracy. As we rested at the Porta San Sebastiano, he explained to us the cultural significance of the via Appia Antica, where it is said that Jesus appeared to St. Peter as he was fleeing the city and St. Peter asked him, "Domine, quo vadis?" Jesus replied, "I am going to Rome to be crucified again" after which St. Peter returned into the city and was promptly crucified. Pointing my finger down the road, I said, "Oh wow, so down this road is where it happened?" Jacopo replied with a shrug, "Well, maybe..."

The best part of our time in Rome was being able to walk everywhere and anywhere. In Bangkok, walking outdoors is usually brief and in designated areas. It was such a treat to meander the back lanes, discovering inspired street art, being quietly but carefully observed by the neighborhood cat's suspicious gaze, or tucking into a small bar for a glass of rose and being treated to complimentary, and delicious, slices of vegetarian pizza. The gelaterias every few blocks didn't hurt either, except that I still had to fit into my dress for the wedding!

Visiting St. Peter's Basilica, the Sistine Chapel and the Vatican museum were incredible, albeit overwhelming. Hundreds of tourists were waiting in line when we arrived early afternoon, and I was thankful for the Vatican museum's online booking system. However, the hordes hardly stopped from when we entered to when we left in the early evening, feet aching and minds reeling. But there would be those moments, like when you suddenly realize you're staring at Michelangelo's La Pieta or the beauty of the afternoon rays of sun streaming through the ornate, dark Basilica, to help you remember why you came in the first place.

 

 

In the Corridors of Kings

Back in February, a long-awaited travel dream of mine was finally fulfilled. Angkor Wat was everything I thought it would be - stunning feats of artistry and architecture that speak volumes about those ancient civilizations in a way that no book can. To see up close the intricate bas-reliefs carved centuries ago, and then refurbished and re-assembled in more recent decades, is incredibly powerful. I didn't always find ruins so interesting, especially in Southeast Asia where many ancient temples all start looking the same after awhile (to the untrained eye at least!). But recently, I've been fascinated by imagining what these places tell us about our predecessors, and about ourselves.

On our last morning in Siem Reap, we took a bumpy tuk-tuk ride out to Banteay Srei. We clattered along as other tuk-tuks, cars and cyclists overtook us. We passed small villages of stilt houses with immaculately swept dirt yards and chickens strutting about. Palm oil simmered in stainless steel bowls. perched on clay stoves by the roadside. The air was perfumed with the scent of the eucalyptus trees that lined the road. It was one of those wonderful moments that remind us why we travel.

In addition to Angkor Wat, Bayon and Ta Phrom, Banteay Srei is not to be missed. Though much smaller than the others, the intricacy of the carvings is unparalleled among the temples. The pink sandstone burns beautifully as the sun rises. Despite the gaggle of tourists around taking selfies, it wasn't too difficult to imagine the sophistication and spirituality of the kingdom that built Banteay Srei back in the 10th Century.

I pondered this as a taxi whisked Pem and I back into glittering downtown Bangkok from the airport later that evening. In another thousand years, what will the monuments and structures of our era say about us? With daily news about the effects of climate change on our planet, I'm less certain our lasting legacy will be one we would claim with pride.

Some photos below from my trip, if you'd like to see... 

"Myth: we have to save the earth. Frankly, the earth doesn't need to be saved. 

Nature doesn't give a hoot if human beings are here or not. The planet has survived cataclysmic and catastrophic changes for millions upon millions of years. Over that time, it is widely believed, 99 percent of all species have come and gone while the planet has remained. Saving the environment is really about saving our environment - making it safe for ourselves, our children, and the world as we know it. If more people saw the issue as one of saving themselves, we would probably see increased motivation and commitment to do so" 

- Robert M. Lilienfeld & William L. Rathje, The Sun Magazine

Best of 2013 - Top Eats

With new places always come encounters with new, unusual flavors. Travelers are rewarded with tasty experiences that cannot be found elsewhere. Som tum (papaya salad) eaten while sitting on the sidewalk of a busy Bangkok soi is not the same as som tum eaten in your neighborhood Thai restaurant (it's probably a fair bit spicier too!). So my top eats from 2013 are not so much about the tastiest things I've eaten, or the fanciest restaurants I've been to, but more about my best food-related memories. 

1) Crunching into a freshly baked banh mi (above), after we stumbled upon a bakery while roaming Hoi An's old city. Nothing can compare with this light-as-air baguette, still warm from the oven - and it cost about 10 cents.  

2) After a full day of touring Fes, nursing warm, fragrant mint tea and nibbling on buttery almond biscuits on the rooftop of our riad and hearing the calls to prayer from the medina's one hundred mosques build and blend until there is no other sound in the evening sky.

3) Tucking into a steaming plate of stir-fried noodles with crunchy spring onions and tofu, sitting amidst rice paddies and soaking in the sweeping scenes of the verdant Sapa valley below. 

4) Sharing a gigantic paper dosa (nearly two feet tall!) and fragrant, richly flavored curries with Pem and my parents at Hanoi's best Indian restaurant, Namaste, whose veg-friendly food we enjoyed at least once a week! 

5) Savouring a slice of my mum's incredible bourbon pecan pumpkin pie after a family lunch once I returned home from a challenging and draining work assignment. 

Now that this trip down memory lane has my mouth watering and my mind wandering, I'll leave it at that. Up next are some of the top drinks I've downed in 2013!

Happy New Year + 2013 "Best Of" Top Travels

 

Happy New Year, everyone! Wow, I cannot believe it's 2014. This past year has truly flown by. It's been a year of wonder, and I look forward to the adventures 2014 will surely bring! But before looking ahead, I'd like to take a quick look back on the "best of" 2013 moments. 

First up in this short series...

By far, this year brought me to more new destinations in a 12-month period than any other. I was delighted to spend 10 months in Vietnam, an absolutely captivating country, and to set foot onto the African continent for the first time. I also felt blessed to be able to see family and old friends in Bangkok, Singapore and Jakarta. But there are a few stand-out places which stirred the traveler's soul in me and yielded some unforgettable moments. 

1) Hoi An, Vietnam - This UNESCO World Heritage site's charm and sheer beauty is a photographer's delight. This city of lanterns, quite simply, illuminates the soul.

2) Hanoi, Vietnam - To me, Hanoi is the heart of Vietnam. The history, the ancient architecture, the sophistication in its street food and, of course, the society, are mesmerizing. Some travelers prefer "more exotic" destinations like Sapa, Halong Bay or Nha Trang. I think the more time you spend in Hanoi, the more its hidden treasures will be revealed to you.

3) Sapa, Vietnam - No doubt touristy, but its natural beauty is too breath-taking to miss. 

4) Meknes, Morocco - We only had a day and a half to explore, but Meknes seems to me a humbler version of Fes. The people are friendlier and the beauty less... polished than Fes or Marrakesh, in a good way.

To be continued next, with 2013 Top Eats...

Postcard from Chantaburi

Chantaburi seems like a sleepy little place at first, but it sure has a lot going on underneath its surface. Bordering Cambodia, this eastern province has distinctly European and Vietnamese influences in its architectural and culinary history. A centuries old gem trading hub, jewels aren't the only attraction in town. Chantaburi is also the fruitbasket of the nation, and increasingly the world*, for tropical fruits such as durian, mangosteen and sala. The soft, tangy flesh of mangosteen is too good to resist. I probably ate my weight in mangosteen in Chantaburi!

The small streets of the old town are charming and easy to walk. Down one block, you may be enticed by the overwhelming scent of freshly baked khanom khai (think smaller, rounder madeleines). Down another, you may spot some decidedly funky street art and hip little cafes. This sleepy town has its fair share of small surprises that won't fail to put a smile on your face. And well, if it doesn't, you clearly haven't been eating enough fruit!

*According to our friend Wiki, in 2000, Chantaburi alone contributed 27% of the world's durian production!

Discovering Ninh Binh

My parents were in town a few weeks ago, and we decided to get out of the city for something a little different. We headed southward to Ninh Binh, less than 100 km away, for a weekend getaway. It was truly the perfect place to take pause from the noise and smog of Hanoi.

Ninh Binh is most known for its scenery, which has garnered the province its nickname as the "inland Halong Bay". Instead of rising out of the sea though, the limestone formations tower over land and rivers. A popular activity is taking a boat ride down the winding river, through lotus paddies and caves. You see flocks of white cranes fishing, women neck-deep in the water searching for snails, pink pigs snuffling for food around a quiet pagoda. If you arrive early enough, before the tour groups arrive, all of this can be enjoyed in serenity. The only sound are the oars slapping the water, as your boatman rows you onward with his callused feet.

Back on land, the views are just as interesting. Always in sight, a distant chain of peaks appears to follow the curves of a sleeping dragon's back. In the foreground, smaller limestone forms appear, their white-grey rock face exposed. Standing next to these are cement plants that appear to be the size of a spacecraft launch pad. The juxtaposition of these towering structures, one made by man, the other by Mother Nature, is telling about the current situation Vietnam is in. In Vietnam's struggle to regain her earlier pace of economic growth, she recognizes there must be sacrifices. In Ninh Binh, they are ground into dust. 

"We are here to awaken from the illusion of our separateness"  

- Thich Nhat Hanh, Paper Lanterns