In the Corridors of Kings

Back in February, a long-awaited travel dream of mine was finally fulfilled. Angkor Wat was everything I thought it would be - stunning feats of artistry and architecture that speak volumes about those ancient civilizations in a way that no book can. To see up close the intricate bas-reliefs carved centuries ago, and then refurbished and re-assembled in more recent decades, is incredibly powerful. I didn't always find ruins so interesting, especially in Southeast Asia where many ancient temples all start looking the same after awhile (to the untrained eye at least!). But recently, I've been fascinated by imagining what these places tell us about our predecessors, and about ourselves.

On our last morning in Siem Reap, we took a bumpy tuk-tuk ride out to Banteay Srei. We clattered along as other tuk-tuks, cars and cyclists overtook us. We passed small villages of stilt houses with immaculately swept dirt yards and chickens strutting about. Palm oil simmered in stainless steel bowls. perched on clay stoves by the roadside. The air was perfumed with the scent of the eucalyptus trees that lined the road. It was one of those wonderful moments that remind us why we travel.

In addition to Angkor Wat, Bayon and Ta Phrom, Banteay Srei is not to be missed. Though much smaller than the others, the intricacy of the carvings is unparalleled among the temples. The pink sandstone burns beautifully as the sun rises. Despite the gaggle of tourists around taking selfies, it wasn't too difficult to imagine the sophistication and spirituality of the kingdom that built Banteay Srei back in the 10th Century.

I pondered this as a taxi whisked Pem and I back into glittering downtown Bangkok from the airport later that evening. In another thousand years, what will the monuments and structures of our era say about us? With daily news about the effects of climate change on our planet, I'm less certain our lasting legacy will be one we would claim with pride.

Some photos below from my trip, if you'd like to see... 

"Myth: we have to save the earth. Frankly, the earth doesn't need to be saved. 

Nature doesn't give a hoot if human beings are here or not. The planet has survived cataclysmic and catastrophic changes for millions upon millions of years. Over that time, it is widely believed, 99 percent of all species have come and gone while the planet has remained. Saving the environment is really about saving our environment - making it safe for ourselves, our children, and the world as we know it. If more people saw the issue as one of saving themselves, we would probably see increased motivation and commitment to do so" 

- Robert M. Lilienfeld & William L. Rathje, The Sun Magazine

Best of 2013 - Top Eats

With new places always come encounters with new, unusual flavors. Travelers are rewarded with tasty experiences that cannot be found elsewhere. Som tum (papaya salad) eaten while sitting on the sidewalk of a busy Bangkok soi is not the same as som tum eaten in your neighborhood Thai restaurant (it's probably a fair bit spicier too!). So my top eats from 2013 are not so much about the tastiest things I've eaten, or the fanciest restaurants I've been to, but more about my best food-related memories. 

1) Crunching into a freshly baked banh mi (above), after we stumbled upon a bakery while roaming Hoi An's old city. Nothing can compare with this light-as-air baguette, still warm from the oven - and it cost about 10 cents.  

2) After a full day of touring Fes, nursing warm, fragrant mint tea and nibbling on buttery almond biscuits on the rooftop of our riad and hearing the calls to prayer from the medina's one hundred mosques build and blend until there is no other sound in the evening sky.

3) Tucking into a steaming plate of stir-fried noodles with crunchy spring onions and tofu, sitting amidst rice paddies and soaking in the sweeping scenes of the verdant Sapa valley below. 

4) Sharing a gigantic paper dosa (nearly two feet tall!) and fragrant, richly flavored curries with Pem and my parents at Hanoi's best Indian restaurant, Namaste, whose veg-friendly food we enjoyed at least once a week! 

5) Savouring a slice of my mum's incredible bourbon pecan pumpkin pie after a family lunch once I returned home from a challenging and draining work assignment. 

Now that this trip down memory lane has my mouth watering and my mind wandering, I'll leave it at that. Up next are some of the top drinks I've downed in 2013!

Happy New Year + 2013 "Best Of" Top Travels

 

Happy New Year, everyone! Wow, I cannot believe it's 2014. This past year has truly flown by. It's been a year of wonder, and I look forward to the adventures 2014 will surely bring! But before looking ahead, I'd like to take a quick look back on the "best of" 2013 moments. 

First up in this short series...

By far, this year brought me to more new destinations in a 12-month period than any other. I was delighted to spend 10 months in Vietnam, an absolutely captivating country, and to set foot onto the African continent for the first time. I also felt blessed to be able to see family and old friends in Bangkok, Singapore and Jakarta. But there are a few stand-out places which stirred the traveler's soul in me and yielded some unforgettable moments. 

1) Hoi An, Vietnam - This UNESCO World Heritage site's charm and sheer beauty is a photographer's delight. This city of lanterns, quite simply, illuminates the soul.

2) Hanoi, Vietnam - To me, Hanoi is the heart of Vietnam. The history, the ancient architecture, the sophistication in its street food and, of course, the society, are mesmerizing. Some travelers prefer "more exotic" destinations like Sapa, Halong Bay or Nha Trang. I think the more time you spend in Hanoi, the more its hidden treasures will be revealed to you.

3) Sapa, Vietnam - No doubt touristy, but its natural beauty is too breath-taking to miss. 

4) Meknes, Morocco - We only had a day and a half to explore, but Meknes seems to me a humbler version of Fes. The people are friendlier and the beauty less... polished than Fes or Marrakesh, in a good way.

To be continued next, with 2013 Top Eats...

Postcard from Chantaburi

Chantaburi seems like a sleepy little place at first, but it sure has a lot going on underneath its surface. Bordering Cambodia, this eastern province has distinctly European and Vietnamese influences in its architectural and culinary history. A centuries old gem trading hub, jewels aren't the only attraction in town. Chantaburi is also the fruitbasket of the nation, and increasingly the world*, for tropical fruits such as durian, mangosteen and sala. The soft, tangy flesh of mangosteen is too good to resist. I probably ate my weight in mangosteen in Chantaburi!

The small streets of the old town are charming and easy to walk. Down one block, you may be enticed by the overwhelming scent of freshly baked khanom khai (think smaller, rounder madeleines). Down another, you may spot some decidedly funky street art and hip little cafes. This sleepy town has its fair share of small surprises that won't fail to put a smile on your face. And well, if it doesn't, you clearly haven't been eating enough fruit!

*According to our friend Wiki, in 2000, Chantaburi alone contributed 27% of the world's durian production!

Dolma Tip Jar: Get Jetset

Inspired by this recent CNN article on "travel don'ts" (thanks for sending, Dad!), I thought I'd share a few travel tips I've accumulated across the years. I've done my fair share of international travel, ever since taking my first international flight just after my first birthday. No matter how long ago you were first bitten by that travel bug, those pangs for adventure never seem to fade entirely. 

A true adventure is never without the possibility of danger. It's about leaving all that is comfortable and familiar behind for a destination that beckons with whispered promises of mystery and magic. But who can be excited for the mystery and the magic when, upon arrival, you discover that you don't have enough cash for your visa, your lotion has exploded all over the contents of your carry-on, and the only local contact numbers you have are plugged into your cell phone, which is now battery dead? Don't be that guy. 

Here's the thing - all those debonair looking travelers who seem to have it together effortlessly are just really well prepared. Or their assistants are. Put in the leg work on the front end and spare yourself the tedious crap. Then when you're on the road, you have the energy and flexible attitude to deal with the larger dilemmas that sometime come with traveling. Like what to do when a monkey sinks his teeth into your leg. Or how to properly respond to a young, drunk armed soldier who feels like messing with a foreigner's mind. Or find out the least guilt-inducing way to handle encounters with the tiny, undernourished and yet seemingly indefatigable street kids who ask you for money, candy, pencils, every step of your walk through town. Or figuring out whether you can ever return to your former life or if you wouldn't rather prefer wandering for the rest of your days. 

"To feel at home, stay at home" - Clifton Fadiman, Paper Lanterns

1) Photocopy your passport (and visa page, if applicable). Keep one or two copies for yourself (separate from your actual passport), keep a copy at home and give a copy to a friend or family member. Just don't do it right before you hop in a taxi for the airport and leave your actual passport lying on the scanner bed at home (yep, I did that). 

2) Put liquids and gels in a zip-lock bag. Not only does it help you figure out whether your expensive face cream might get tossed by airport security, but you'll protect your other packed items from damage if a bottle breaks or bursts in transit.

3) If you're traveling on business (or any trip, really), always pack one proper outfit in your carry-on. If your checked luggage doesn't arrive to your destination at the same time you do, you'll at least have one other outfit to wear to that first day of meetings. Avoid spending your first day in a new place having to go clothes shopping. Unless that's what you enjoy, of course. 

4) Always carry at least one crisp, clean $100 USD bill in case of emergencies. I prefer to carry at least two per traveler, in separate bags. ATM cards get eaten. Credit cards get denied. Just have a backup method of payment. Because we all know - no money, no funny.

5) Don't assume you can buy a visa upon arrival. Check the requirements and have the right application materials, or better, get it in advance from the Embassy. 

6) Always know where you are sleeping your first night (at least!). There's a lot to take in when you first arrive to a destination (even if it's a relatively familiar one to you). The last thing you want to do after a long flight is hotel hopping to see if they have any availability.

7) Have a list of local emergency contacts handy. Before you leave, ask friends and family if they know anyone living in your destination city or country. Troll Facebook. The world is getting smaller, so your chances are high. At least have the address and contact number of your Embassy and your emergency contacts at home written down. Like with a pen, on a piece of paper. Phones can die, get stolen or fall out of back pockets and drown in the toilet. Again, do yourself a favor and have a back-up.

8) Don't put all your cash and your passport in the same place. And for Pete's sake, don't put your passport in your wallet. I did that. My wallet got stolen, and instead of just dealing with foregone cash and credit cards (which sucks), I had to deal with a stolen passport (which sucks even more). This is where a photocopy of your passport comes in handy. 

9) If you're traveling internationally, get to the airport at least two hours before your flight. Ok, I get to airports freakishly early compared to my colleagues and most other people I know. But you know what? This practice has given me peace of mind, and in some cases, second chances. I'm almost ashamed to say this as such a frequent traveler, but I've gone to the wrong airport before twice. I didn't check my itinerary closely enough, I assumed I was leaving out of one airport and when I got to the check-in counter, they couldn't find my itinerary. But I had enough time to find a taxi and get to the correct airport and make my original flight.

10) Don't assume that you can get away with doing foolhardy or illegal things just because you're a foreigner. The chances of doing either increases proportionately with the amount of drinking you do. Be respectful and remember you're a guest. Likewise, don't assume that every open smile is an honest one and listen to your instincts. Maintaining a healthy sense of perspective is key (i.e. do you really want to make a huge fuss over being cheated $1?).

11) Carry mild pain relievers (Advil, Tylenol, paracemetol), Pepto-Bismol and Imodium, plus any required medications with you. Pharmacies may not have or understand what you need. If you do need a pharmacy, try to go to one that is connected to or near a hospital and has other customers in line! 

12) If you're going to hit the local street food scene your first day, go to a place with a line, or full tables. Chances are higher that the food is tasty and safe.

13) Don't see a new place entirely through the lens of your camera or video-cam. Sounds funny coming from a photo blogger, but I mean it. No moment of your life can truly, entirely be captured by any type of film. Take a break and just breathe it in.

14) Last, but certainly not least, keep a smile and an open mind. You're having an adventure! There will be mishaps. There may even be some danger. A real adventure isn't supposed to be easy. But you can always, always count on a once of a lifetime experience after which you will never be the same.

Did I miss any big ones? Or not spontaneous enough? What are some of your tips for travelers?

Shots from the Train

I've been battling a cold the last few days so I haven't been able to make any progress on that promised post about our tasting tour of Morocco. I suspect the beginnings of this cold were caught in Sapa. Pem and I were visiting this mountain town in northern Vietnam for a 3-day weekend. I loved it and look forward to sharing photos soon. For now, here are a few shots taken from the train of the Moroccan countryside.

 

 

Moroccan Adventures Part 3 - The Medina

The medina is a meeting point of merchants, tourists, touts, artisans, holymen, schoolchildren, bakers, butchers and beggars. Inside the tall, clay walls stand ancient structures, souks, homes, mosques and a few public squares interconnected by a maze of petites ruelles. Some medinas are more peaceful than others, but to get lost in these little lanes and let your senses soak in the beautiful scenes that surround you, is to attain nothing short of an ultimate traveler's high.

Unless, of course, you've got a wedding to attend. Pem and I did seriously think for a few moments that we may miss Harry and Sophia's wedding ceremony because we couldn't find our way out of the souk. We had entered innocently following successful visits to the Maison de la Photographie and Madrasa Ben Youssef, but as we readied to return home, we realized we had no clue where we were. We followed green sign after green sign indicating "Jemaa el-Fna Square" but the labyrinth continued. We hurried past shops selling leather slippers, elaborate jewelry, brightly painted tajines, glistening sweets, even wedding decor and caftans (at which point we thought that may be the closest we'd get to a wedding). Our winding trail finally deposited us onto a cobblestone patch in the sun. We recognized the stretch of stalls before us. With towering mounds of dried fruits and fresh jus d'orange, they led the way toward our guesthouse, and we ran.

The ancient medinas of Marrakech and Fes are both on the UNESCO World Heritage list. Below are some scenes from inside their walls...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

NYT Spends 36 Hours in My Favorite City

If you felt pangs of wanderlust while reading my last two posts, check out the latest NYT's 36 Hours in Bangkok. The intro is spot on - "To travel across Bangkok is to see several worlds at once."

The recommended itinerary is pretty good and does indeed seem to promise the traveler glimpses into many of Bangkok's different worlds. I would say an absolute must which the article omits is sunset happy hour at Arun Residence's The Deck Restaurant. Get there early. From your seat, you can watch the blazing sun melt behind the Temple of Dawn in a fury of pinks, oranges and reds while sipping on a well-deserved cocktail.


(photo credit - Pem, with some minor editing)