When in Rome...

What can one say about Italy that hasn't been said before? We had an incredible time traversing the land of abundant and stunning architecture, history and art, and sampling as many incredible wines, pizza and gelato as we dared. Over ten days, we took a Vespa tour of Rome, discovered Naples' underground scene, hiked to the crater of a volcano on the Aeolian island of Vulcano, and celebrated our friends' beautiful wedding in Reggio-Calabria.  It all went by like a flash as most vacations usually do. But I know now that my first trip to Italy will certainly not be my last! First up, some highlights from our four days in the Eternal City...

Central Rome in August feels a little bit like Washington, D.C. in summertime. Most locals have fled for more tranquil environs, and tourists, busloads of them, overtake the city. Perhaps this befalls the historically-blessed cities with culturally significant sites scattered in every neighborhood. The Pantheon, the Trevi Fountain, the Spanish Steps, the Colosseum - you can be completely clueless wandering Rome's Centro Storico and still stumble upon some grand, ancient edifice. Our Italian friend in Bangkok explained this was why Rome didn't have any central subway stations - every time they would start digging, they found another ancient ruin! This was perfect for us, since Pem and I usually have conflicting opinions about directions most of the time. 

There is no better way to get a sense of Rome than from the back of a Vespa. Our Scooteroma guides Ipatzio and Jacopo were safe and courteous drivers, and had a wealth of knowledge about their city. They showed us how the real Romans drink from the copious, and decorous, water fountains around the city -  instead of dipping your head down to drink, you plug the flow with a finger and sip from the stream of water that jets out from a small hole in the top of the nasone like a water fountain. Jacopo, a former history scholar, was particularly careful about accuracy. As we rested at the Porta San Sebastiano, he explained to us the cultural significance of the via Appia Antica, where it is said that Jesus appeared to St. Peter as he was fleeing the city and St. Peter asked him, "Domine, quo vadis?" Jesus replied, "I am going to Rome to be crucified again" after which St. Peter returned into the city and was promptly crucified. Pointing my finger down the road, I said, "Oh wow, so down this road is where it happened?" Jacopo replied with a shrug, "Well, maybe..."

The best part of our time in Rome was being able to walk everywhere and anywhere. In Bangkok, walking outdoors is usually brief and in designated areas. It was such a treat to meander the back lanes, discovering inspired street art, being quietly but carefully observed by the neighborhood cat's suspicious gaze, or tucking into a small bar for a glass of rose and being treated to complimentary, and delicious, slices of vegetarian pizza. The gelaterias every few blocks didn't hurt either, except that I still had to fit into my dress for the wedding!

Visiting St. Peter's Basilica, the Sistine Chapel and the Vatican museum were incredible, albeit overwhelming. Hundreds of tourists were waiting in line when we arrived early afternoon, and I was thankful for the Vatican museum's online booking system. However, the hordes hardly stopped from when we entered to when we left in the early evening, feet aching and minds reeling. But there would be those moments, like when you suddenly realize you're staring at Michelangelo's La Pieta or the beauty of the afternoon rays of sun streaming through the ornate, dark Basilica, to help you remember why you came in the first place.

 

 

In the Corridors of Kings

Back in February, a long-awaited travel dream of mine was finally fulfilled. Angkor Wat was everything I thought it would be - stunning feats of artistry and architecture that speak volumes about those ancient civilizations in a way that no book can. To see up close the intricate bas-reliefs carved centuries ago, and then refurbished and re-assembled in more recent decades, is incredibly powerful. I didn't always find ruins so interesting, especially in Southeast Asia where many ancient temples all start looking the same after awhile (to the untrained eye at least!). But recently, I've been fascinated by imagining what these places tell us about our predecessors, and about ourselves.

On our last morning in Siem Reap, we took a bumpy tuk-tuk ride out to Banteay Srei. We clattered along as other tuk-tuks, cars and cyclists overtook us. We passed small villages of stilt houses with immaculately swept dirt yards and chickens strutting about. Palm oil simmered in stainless steel bowls. perched on clay stoves by the roadside. The air was perfumed with the scent of the eucalyptus trees that lined the road. It was one of those wonderful moments that remind us why we travel.

In addition to Angkor Wat, Bayon and Ta Phrom, Banteay Srei is not to be missed. Though much smaller than the others, the intricacy of the carvings is unparalleled among the temples. The pink sandstone burns beautifully as the sun rises. Despite the gaggle of tourists around taking selfies, it wasn't too difficult to imagine the sophistication and spirituality of the kingdom that built Banteay Srei back in the 10th Century.

I pondered this as a taxi whisked Pem and I back into glittering downtown Bangkok from the airport later that evening. In another thousand years, what will the monuments and structures of our era say about us? With daily news about the effects of climate change on our planet, I'm less certain our lasting legacy will be one we would claim with pride.

Some photos below from my trip, if you'd like to see... 

"Myth: we have to save the earth. Frankly, the earth doesn't need to be saved. 

Nature doesn't give a hoot if human beings are here or not. The planet has survived cataclysmic and catastrophic changes for millions upon millions of years. Over that time, it is widely believed, 99 percent of all species have come and gone while the planet has remained. Saving the environment is really about saving our environment - making it safe for ourselves, our children, and the world as we know it. If more people saw the issue as one of saving themselves, we would probably see increased motivation and commitment to do so" 

- Robert M. Lilienfeld & William L. Rathje, The Sun Magazine

Time for Transitions...

 

Well, my friends, where shall I begin? These last few months have been of the sort that start normally enough, perhaps with hints at occasional bouts of boredom. But soon, life grabs you by the lapels, takes you for a wild ride, and then, not a second too late, drops you off where you were actually heading all along. Home.

After ten months and ten days living in Vietnam, last week Pem and I moved to Bangkok for reasons both personal and professional. The winds of change urged us on, with their heady scent mixed of anticipation, promise and always, a touch of sadness. We've been busy unpacking and getting settled, but some photos from recent travels to Chantaburi and Ho Chi Minh City are coming soon, as well as a post on saying goodbye to Hanoi. Let the adventures continue!

Moroccan Adventures Part 5 - The Finale

"There is a third dimension to traveling: the longing for what is beyond" 
- Jan Myrdal, Lanterns 

We arrived into Meknes on a Friday, after two active days in Fes. On this holy day in the former Moroccan capital, the streets were calm and people moved slowly. It was a welcome change. Our week of non-stop touring was starting to wear on us. Thankfully our guesthouse, the Riad Safir, was a stunning and soothing retreat. After enjoying some fresh jus d'orange and cinnamon-sugared cookies upon check-in, we set out. We ambled through the sleepy souk and munched on purple olives in the jardin zoologique. Then, a horse-drawn carriage ride just as the golden hour descended upon the ancient city. I felt as though we were moving in a different time, my heart heavy with anticipation of the inevitable return to the familar.

Though that's the end of our journey, it's not quite the end of the story. More to come soon on Moroccan food and travel recommendations. For now, some photos below so you can see a little of the magic of Meknes*... 

*The last few photos are from Casablanca, where we spent our final evening before an early morning return flight home.

Moroccan Adventures - Part 1

After ten amazing days in Morocco, we returned back to bustling Hanoi during the Monday morning rush hour. I don’t even know where to begin to recount our trip – the colorful souks, the stunning countryside, a magical Moroccan-Indian wedding... Our travel itinerary was an ambitious one but it worked out well and our friends’ wedding in Marrakech was truly the icing on the cake. More on the wedding in another post, but boy did we have a good time celebrating.

After three days of wedding festivities, the four of us (we traveled with two of Pem’s old high school friends, Adrien and Marie) drove up and away to the High Atlas Mountains in search of the Valley of Roses. Two days later, we took in the countryside by train as we traveled northward to Fes. After another two days, we entered the Berber capital of Meknes. And then all too soon it seemed we were back at the Casablanca Mohamed V airport, spending our last dirhams on coffee and trinkets and saying our goodbyes.  

On our 13 hour return flight from Paris to Hanoi, Pem and I pored over the free newspapers since the in-flight entertainment program wasn’t operating (c’mon Vietnam Airlines! **shakes fist**). Reading the news always seems to break the spell of a great vacation. I also realized that at least for me, browsing for souvenirs in the souks had a similar effect. This was partially because I knew I’d have to lug whatever I purchased back to Asia, but mostly because the browsing, the bargaining and the haggling seemed so out of tune with what I was seeing and feeling. A leather backpack, Berber jewelry, a lantern, brightly colored poterie - all things I thought I wanted to buy for myself and others. But I kept putting it off, not wanting to carry anything unnecessary until our last stop in Meknes, where we arrived on a Friday and found most shops were closed.

At the Casa airport, I had just ten minutes to find some small trinkets to bring back. I expressed my frustration with Pem, who concluded that nothing had stopped me from doing it earlier in our trip. Though I didn’t take his remark particularly well at the time, he was right. I just didn’t want to bring myself into those situations of being quoted a ridiculous tourist price and sensing that familiar pressure to buy, buy, buy. It’s fun for some, an obligation for others, but I think it’s become unappealing to me because it’s a reminder that any souvenirs I buy will soon turn into exactly what they’re meant to be. Small, inadequate mementos of a particular place at a particular moment, never to be seen again as it was for that very first time.

“Travel is not about finding something: it’s about getting lost - 
that is, it is about losing yourself in a place and a moment... It’s nice to see the significant centers of civilization, the important buildings, the monumental landscapes, but what seems most extraordinary is feeling yourself lifted out of your ordinary life into something new.” 
 - quote from Susan Orlean, Best of Travel Writing 2007