Throwback Thursday - The Treehouse

Once again time has gotten the better of me, as it does. Now it is already mid-November and I have yet to share the rest of our Italian adventures from August. Alas, the show must go on - so I'm starting a Throwback Thursdays (aka "TBT") series. The series will revisit adventures and photos of months or years past that I've missed along the way. 

For this first edition of Throwback Thursday, I'm taking us to June of this year. For a friend's birthday, we traveled to the outskirts of Chiang Mai to spend our weekend away from the constant construction and traffic in the city. After a perilous drive at night in a wide van on a narrow, winding road, we arrived in utter darkness to our accommodation. The next morning, we awoke in the treetops - not another house nor human in sight. We were cocooned in nature, cut off from the rest of civilization. 

Over the weekend, we hiked to a delicious, cool waterfall in the nest of the forest, sampled homemade curry made with fresh banana flower, rode down the river on a bamboo raft and were expertly prodded and pulled by three local masseuses on the deck of the treehouse. For our friend's birthday, we toasted beers at the local 'pub' (someone's house where we drank semi-cold beers on their stoop), watched a fat lizard hunt for dinner, played some games and ate fluffy birthday cake before falling asleep under a carpet of stars. An unforgettable, and much needed, get-away to recharge.

Here are some more photos from this week's TBT...

Summer Mango Couscous Salad

When I first moved to Asia, I was really excited about cooking with all of the local spices - galangal, lemongrass, kaffir lime... I had grand visions of asian sesame slaw, tempeh stir-frys and mango spring rolls. However, limited kitchen space and utensils combined with a vibrant, reasonably-priced restaurant scene means we eat out or order in almost every night.

It's been summer here in Bangkok for a few months already, but I did recently feel inspired to try a new, light salad for the season. Mango in some form (green, pale yellow, orange) is available almost year-round here, typically paired with sticky rice and coconut cream. Here I used ripe yellow mango to brighten a simple couscous salad - the juicy sweetness of the mango rounds out the punch from the red onion and complements the salty, creamy crumbs of feta. I ate this on lettuce, but I bet the couscous could serve as a nice bed for some grilled salmon or shrimp for a heartier meal.

I love couscous because there are so many salad variations you can make with it. This summer-y mango version of couscous salad is a refreshing and light lunch option, but the bold mix of flavors makes it very satisfying.

Ingredients -
1 ripe yellow mango, sliced into small cubes
1/2 small red onion, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
Small handful of parsley, finely chopped (cilantro may work too, I just had parsley on hand)
4 cups cooked couscous, fluffed
2 cups grape tomatoes, halved
1 cup crumbled feta (optional for vegan version)

Dressing -
Combine 2 tablespoons pesto with the juice of 1.5 lemons and slowly whisk in about 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Process -
1. After cooking the couscous according to instructions on the package, fluff the couscous and while it's still warm, measure out about 4-5 cups of the couscous into a large bowl.
2. Add the minced garlic, red onion, parsley and grape tomatoes into the couscous and toss.
3. Drizzle the dressing over the couscous, tossing lightly to ensure the dressing is incorporated through out. Add more cooked couscous if you prefer a drier couscous salad. The tomatoes, mango and dressing dampens the couscous which I prefer.
4. Toss in the crumbled feta - add more or less to taste.
5. While lightly tossing the salad, add in the mango cubes little by little, taking care not to mash them too much while mixing.
6. Squeeze some fresh lemon juice on top and some salt and black pepper to taste.

Bon appetit!

(Sidenote: For those of you in Bangkok, I was able to purchase the lemons, pre-made pesto, parsley, feta and couscous at Villa Supermarket near the Phrom Phong BTS station.)

Miloni & Gautam - Khao Lak, Thailand

I could use many words to describe Miloni and Gautam's wedding weekend in Khao Lak, Thailand, but I think these four letters suffice. E-P-I-C.

Held at the stunning JW Marriott in Khao Lak last month, this 3-day celebration had all the makings of an unforgettable wedding. There were fiery sunsets, an elephant, bejeweled saris, an electric violinist, late night pool parties and lots of dancing! It really was the perfect way to fete this adventuresome, life-loving couple and the union of their families.

It's impossible to choose a favorite moment, but perhaps one of the most touching was a small ceremony before the actual exchange of vows, when Miloni's side of the family gives their wishes before she officially joins her new family. Friends and family tie golden kalira onto the bride's wrists, with murmured blessings and tearful singing. She wears these golden ornaments until the end of the wedding ceremony, literally weighed down with the blessings of her loved ones. It's an incredibly intimate ceremony, quite different from the exuberance and extravagance of the rest of the celebration - something that I'll never forget.

One of my best friends and former roommates from UVa, Miloni is the kind of person you can always count on to "go big" rather than "go home". Her sense of adventure and novelty was always a significant factor driving our college shenanigans (at least that's how I remember it! :-). After college, Miloni moved to New York. Whenever we visited, she always knew the new hip spots, had opinions about the latest critically-acclaimed movie, and could talk circles around you about the happenings within Manhattan's Financial District. 

Miloni's focus is another aspect I admire most about her.  In college, when some of us were studying astronomy just for credit and debating which majors had the least requirements, Miloni already had her academic career mapped out through graduation. Apparently she wanted to pursue investment banking since the tender age of ten! So all the better when she set her sights on Gautam on the UVa campus - a man who could keep up with her and complement her in such a way that they could go big and go home together. 

These two built their relationship over nearly 7 years, across several borders and on top of many adventures around the globe. I wish the two of you all the happiness in the world as you embark on your biggest adventure yet - as Mr. and Ms. Malhotra!

 

 

Bangkok's Coup Season

It's already been over six months since Pierre and I arrived in Bangkok. And nearly two months since I went part-time with my job. It's always astounding how quickly the days pass. I'm disappointed that I haven't been able to write more here in recent months, but I'm hoping that will change soon. 

These past few months have been filled with travel, Thai New Year celebrations, spending time with family, making new friends and re-discovering Asia's City of Angels. Bangkok has been an interesting place to be during the past half year, especially over the last week. A lot about Thailand has been revealed through the ongoing political crisis that has kept the country on its toes since last October. It's been an excellent crash course on Thailand's political and social situation!

This past weekend was the first time that I've had to worry about getting home before curfew in about a decade (!). Now past the "roaring" phase of my twenties, I'll admit I'm somewhat pleased there's a military order backing my homebody nightlife. So what is there to do in the sweltering Big Mango when a coup's been declared and a curfew is in effect? 

DO - Check out Bangkok's happening coffee shop scene. Funky cafes with artisanal pastries and latte art are popping up all over the city. My new fave is Casa Lapin on Sukhumvit Soi 26 with comfy, copious seating, free wi-fi, a mouthwatering pastry display and creamy, ice-cold lattes. Your daily buzz never looked so hip. 

DO - Check the news and/or Twitter feeds (such as Richard Barrow's) for updates about the political situation before heading out of the house/hotel in the morning. The security situation can change literally overnight and areas that may have been fine to visit yesterday may not be safe today.

DON'T - Let anyone persuade you that key tourist sites such as the Emerald Buddha or Grand Palace complex are closed. These con guys try their schtick on all tourist-looking types to rope them into an elaborate gem scam all year round, but may take advantage of the uncertain security situation to further convince victims they are "helping" them. Check the place out yourself first and never trust a tuk-tuk driver that will take a fare lower than 100 baht unless you're that confident about your bargaining skills!

DO - Stay indoors as much as possible. The humidity and heat are not to be reckoned with, especially during mid-day when you break a sweat before you even step outside. Pay a visit to the Bangkok Art and Cultural Centre (BACC) or an art space like Speedy Grandma (I just love their name!). The Thailand Creative and Design Centre (TCDC) in the Emporium Mall is great for marketing and design buffs. TCDC has a lovely library and workspace, design exhibition space and store with unique, local products that make great gifts. 

DON'T - Attempt to visit an anti-coup or other protest site or take #selfies with armed soldiers. Though the city is mostly safe and calm, you can end up being in the wrong place at the wrong time in the blink of an eye. Stay up to date on what areas of the city to avoid and stay well away! 

DO - Try your hand at Thai cooking! Learn all the fragrant, exotic spices that go into crowd favorites such as green curry, papaya salad and tom yum soup. The best part is that you have total control over the spice level and you get to enjoy it all afterward! The Blue Elephant is one of Bangkok's oldest, most prestigious culinary institutions but there are several more now around the city for differing tastes and budgets. 

DO - Stop by for a refreshing tipple at one of Bangkok's many watering holes during early evening - chances are, there's a happy hour deal. Pomelo margaritas at Opposite Mess Hall, bespoke cocktails at U.N.C.L.E passion fruit pisco sours at Above Eleven, and tamarind margaritas at Maya are some of the best drinks I've had in this city thus far.

DON'T - Knock back too many drinks. This may sound obvious but I've heard some scary stories about foreigners getting spiked drinks and almost being mugged just a few minutes away from home. It's not common, but drunk foreigners are pretty obvious targets. Especially late at night in small, dark sois. Sip slowly, stick with friends and always be aware of your surroundings!

 

DON'T - Miss curfew! It's true that the curfew enforcement has been fairly relaxed in most areas of the city and some bars and nightclubs will stay open well past 10 pm. Thailand isn't a place you want to get caught missing curfew. Those lame excuses for missing curfew didn't work on your parents and they won't work now. 

DO - Keep friends and family updated of your whereabouts. Every day. Don't assume no news is good news.

DON'T  - Try to talk serious politics with locals and exert your opinion as a foreigner. Light-hearted chatting about the situation is fine (like the terrible traffic!), but be sensitive and aware this is a tense time where the unsolicited opinions of passing foreigners are not particularly welcome. 

DO - Remember that a smile and a "kop khun kha" (thank you) will take you a long way here.

Bangkok is a sprawling, incredibly complex mess of an urban soul. Spend a little while and uncover some of its mysteries...

Breathe

"Why do monks live in seclusion? That is asking why does a scientist work in a laboratory, or why does a sailor go on a ship or why does a duck swim in water. Why does a man go to his bedroom and get in bed when he wants to go to sleep? Why doesn’t he lie down in the middle of the street? A monk seeks silence and solitude because there his mind and heart can relax and expand and attain to a new perspective: there too he can hear the Word of God. . . ."   - Thomas Merton

Whew! Nearly three months into the new year, I feel like I've finally had a chance to come up for air. Somehow the work, the social events, and the travels stitch together in such a way that life gets fast forwarded without your realizing it. Though I'd never take back any of those experiences, it's come at the cost of being able to regularly and deeply reflect on them. I'm grateful for this moment now, to breathe, on a rare quiet Saturday while on business travel in Vietnam.

As an only child, I've always cherished being alone. If there's anything only children are surely to be spoiled by, it would be the time left to be with their own selves and thoughts. While I love spending time with family and friends, learning from and socializing with others, I've always felt the most profoundly spiritual moments in my life come at times I am alone. I remember, when I was 15, my parents and I visited a wind farm in Western Australia. My parents were taking pictures, as I hiked up and up to the top of a small hill. Standing amidst tall grass shuffling in the wind, and looking out at all those massive white turbines, as they eerily turned in unison. That image is forever etched in my mind, as a souvenir of that moment my teenaged curiosity turned to life's larger questions like, who are we? and, what are we doing here? 

Interestingly, my parents are now on a ten day silent meditation retreat in Eastern Thailand. No talking, no electronics, no books - only 2 meals and 11 hours of sitting a day. I'm not sure I'm quite there yet, despite my general eagerness of alone time. For now, a quiet morning alone with a pen and notebook will do just fine. 

More thoughts worth sharing on being alone in this month's issue of The Sun Magazine...

Postcard from Chantaburi

Chantaburi seems like a sleepy little place at first, but it sure has a lot going on underneath its surface. Bordering Cambodia, this eastern province has distinctly European and Vietnamese influences in its architectural and culinary history. A centuries old gem trading hub, jewels aren't the only attraction in town. Chantaburi is also the fruitbasket of the nation, and increasingly the world*, for tropical fruits such as durian, mangosteen and sala. The soft, tangy flesh of mangosteen is too good to resist. I probably ate my weight in mangosteen in Chantaburi!

The small streets of the old town are charming and easy to walk. Down one block, you may be enticed by the overwhelming scent of freshly baked khanom khai (think smaller, rounder madeleines). Down another, you may spot some decidedly funky street art and hip little cafes. This sleepy town has its fair share of small surprises that won't fail to put a smile on your face. And well, if it doesn't, you clearly haven't been eating enough fruit!

*According to our friend Wiki, in 2000, Chantaburi alone contributed 27% of the world's durian production!

NYT Spends 36 Hours in My Favorite City

If you felt pangs of wanderlust while reading my last two posts, check out the latest NYT's 36 Hours in Bangkok. The intro is spot on - "To travel across Bangkok is to see several worlds at once."

The recommended itinerary is pretty good and does indeed seem to promise the traveler glimpses into many of Bangkok's different worlds. I would say an absolute must which the article omits is sunset happy hour at Arun Residence's The Deck Restaurant. Get there early. From your seat, you can watch the blazing sun melt behind the Temple of Dawn in a fury of pinks, oranges and reds while sipping on a well-deserved cocktail.


(photo credit - Pem, with some minor editing)

In a Concrete Jungle...

Bangkok is big. And this concrete jungle of a city keeps growing every day. Even since my visit last April, I feel like more condos and shopping malls have cropped up or are under construction. It's impressive and clear evidence of the upward trend of economic strength and stability of Thailand's capital. It's a little bewildering to think about what this city might look like in five or ten years' time.

Since my parents moved into my grandparents' home in the middle of Bangkok's shopping district over five years ago, they have transformed their garden into an oasis within the city. The week we were there, waxy pink ginger flowers, bright red birds of paradise, vibrant purple plumeria blossoms, mango trees, white-flowered calamansi, various types of herbs and a dozen (or more!) different kinds of bananas were growing in the garden. Even these mid-April mornings were too hot to enjoy breakfast on the patio, but one morning I set out to capture as much of the garden's beauty as I could. Cultivated green spaces like this are really unique in Bangkok and they are becoming more rare by the minute.

 

The Bangkok Beat

It's been awhile, friends. Work has been terribly busy but I'm hoping that I can soon restore some balance in my life and get back to blogging. 

Pem and I were in Bangkok two weeks ago. The weather was scorching, but boy did it feel good to be back. There is nothing like being home. 

Towards the beginning of the week, we were poked, prodded and finally pronounced healthy by some of Bangkok's finest medical and dental establishments. That restored our confidence enough to throw healthy habits out the window and properly celebrate my mum's birthday on Thursday at the Mandarin Oriental's La Normandie. 

Friday night we went out with friends to Soi 11 for (veggie) burgers and beers before heading to Bed (Bed Supperclub, that is). We ended the night at a curbside bar enjoying drinks from the back of a bus (yes, really). On Saturday morning, Pem and I ran some errands and returned to the house thoroughly soaked with Songkraan (Thai New Year) "good wishes". Despite not being able to deliver any new years wishes via SuperSoaker ourselves, we were happy to be a part of it and even more thankful for Ziploc bags for our phones! Our visit ended with a wonderful evening enjoying karaoke and good company. 

Definitely looking forward to our next visit. Hopefully Pem and I will have a duet to share at the next karaoke! Until then, some scenes of the Bangkok beat below...

(photo credit: first four photos taken by Pem, which I slightly edited.)