When in Rome, Mangia! - Best Eats

 

Silky pumpkin and sage custard. Crumbly sour cherry and ricotta frolla. Fragrant, thin slices of potato rosemary pizza. These are some of the new tastes I encountered in Rome, a food-obsessed city that has delicious vegetarian options at reasonable prices (Traveling to Italy as SE Asia resident means everything seems comparatively expensive. Except for wine. Thank god for small miracles.). Here are some of my recommendations for veg-friendly feasting, guilt-free gelato and gifts for foodies.

*Where to Unwind with Friends for Hours over Wine and Good Conversation*

On our first night, we had dinner with Sebastiano and Diana, who we met via our Italian friend in Bangkok. They brought us to Meridionale in the hip Trastevere area across the river from Rome's centro storico. Sebastiano explained that Trastevere is so interesting because it's right in the heart of the city, yet it's built just like some tiny villages in the Italian countryside. This trattoria, tucked away from the bustling crowds of tourists, is instantly welcoming with its low-key but funky interior. This is where the aforementioned pumpkin and sage custard happened, incredibly creamy and bursting with rich flavor. After the antipasti, I had a decadent, perfectly peppery cacio e pepe with a lovely Italian white wine that helped cut the richness. 

Over the meal, we discussed Rome recommendations, talked about what it's like to live in Bangkok, and how challenging it is for young professionals in Italy to find suitable jobs these days. But despite the difficult times, it seemed like everyone still recognized the importance of good food, drink and company. The flow of patrons to Meridionale's few tables never stopped, even as our jet lag came crashing down and we had to leave. By then, the streets were much quieter, emptier as we strolled back to the river and I got a sense of what Sebastiano meant about the tiny Italian village. It was undoubtedly the perfect way to kick-off our exploration of Rome. Thanks, Sebastiano and Diana!

*Where to Enjoy Guilt-Free Gelato*

After our Vespa tour of the city the next afternoon, we were well overdue for some gelato. On our way back to the apartment (AirBnB = best decision ever), we popped into Cambiovita - an organic, vegetarian/vegan cafe and gelateria. Vegan options were abound, including vegan pistachio, dark chocolate and hazelnut, in addition to the usual fruit-based gelato. I went for a sour cherry and (non-vegan) cream combination that absolutely hit the spot, especially after a morning spent on the back of a scooter in relentless sun. With a mission to promote healthy and smart eating, I figured Cambiovita was a good cause and as I daintily threw back the melted dregs of my cup, I promised to return the following day.

*Where to Fuel Up Before Visiting the Vatican*

Recommended by Italian food expert/blogger Katie Parla and her amazing food app, Romeo was a much needed treat after a long morning of spontaneous exploration devolved into two hangry people (okay, maybe only one) getting lost. This restaurant/deli offers just the fuel needed to face the hordes of tourists at the Vatican later that afternoon - huge slabs of varied pizza cut and weighed to order, fresh sandwiches on pillowy foccacia, and an interesting selection of wine and craft beers. Pem had a nice glass of wine wine with an Asian take on spaghetti - green beans, sesame and some soybean paste. It was creative and tasted good, but a little too heavy and salty for me. I opted for a ladylike and delicious Duchessa beer, paired with two un-ladylike slabs of pizza - a heavenly potato-rosemary combination and another with plump cherry tomatoes, oregano, hollandaise and fresh mozzarella. Sharing was tough and the service was wonderful - a winning combination. 

*Where to Have a Romantic Dinner*

Thoroughly battered from an afternoon touring the Vatican Museums and St. Peter's Basilica, we treated ourselves to a relaxing, romantic dinner al fresco at Obika. Although a global chain, Obika started ten years ago and has been a long-time partner of the Italian Slow Food Presidia, committing to using local products and traditions. Interestingly, contrary to what one may believe are staples of Italian cuisine, none of their dishes feature garlic or onions (I was dubious, Pem was thankful). We chose their Parlamento location - tucked into the corner of a tiny piazza, it felt more like a neighborhood locals' spot.  Our waiter, who excitedly shared he was also vegetarian, recommended us a refreshing chickpea and mint salad, which we paired with a wonderful smoked mozzarella and grilled vegetable pizza. Everything went down smooth and easy, and no one remembered the missing garlic or onions at all.

*Where to Find Breakfast and Snacks for the Train to Naples*

After Katie Parla's Romeo recommendation, I decided to also follow her advice on pastries and baked goods - Roscioli. A deli/bakery with a separate restaurant, Roscioli is basically a carb-lovers' dream. Breads, pastries, and other carb-y goodness piled atop one another, smelling fresh and inviting on our last morning in Rome. We (I) determine we are going to starve on the one-hour train ride to Naples and buy enough for breakfast, lunch and dinner for the next two days. And even then, I wish I had bought more of their pizzette rustiche - mini tarts with a dollop of the most delicious tomato sauce I've ever had. Even soggy and crushed from the train ride, these were delectable. And for more days than probably recommended, we kept nibbling on their ricotta e spinaci torta, a heavy, quiche-shaped pastry that was actually much bigger, and more delicious, than it looked.

*Where to Buy Local Food Products/Gifts*

On our way to the Vatican (before the hangry phase kicked in), we stumbled upon a cute shop in Trastevere that I ended up buying basically all of my gifts from. La Cardellina is a bio/eco-friendly shop with citrus and herb-infused olive oils, organic honey grappa, and loads of natural beauty products. The fellow there was very friendly and enthusiastic about the products and the prices were right. Also, the bottles of honey, grappa, and olive oil come in various sizes so it's perfect for gift-giving to family and friends!

Summer Mango Couscous Salad

When I first moved to Asia, I was really excited about cooking with all of the local spices - galangal, lemongrass, kaffir lime... I had grand visions of asian sesame slaw, tempeh stir-frys and mango spring rolls. However, limited kitchen space and utensils combined with a vibrant, reasonably-priced restaurant scene means we eat out or order in almost every night.

It's been summer here in Bangkok for a few months already, but I did recently feel inspired to try a new, light salad for the season. Mango in some form (green, pale yellow, orange) is available almost year-round here, typically paired with sticky rice and coconut cream. Here I used ripe yellow mango to brighten a simple couscous salad - the juicy sweetness of the mango rounds out the punch from the red onion and complements the salty, creamy crumbs of feta. I ate this on lettuce, but I bet the couscous could serve as a nice bed for some grilled salmon or shrimp for a heartier meal.

I love couscous because there are so many salad variations you can make with it. This summer-y mango version of couscous salad is a refreshing and light lunch option, but the bold mix of flavors makes it very satisfying.

Ingredients -
1 ripe yellow mango, sliced into small cubes
1/2 small red onion, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
Small handful of parsley, finely chopped (cilantro may work too, I just had parsley on hand)
4 cups cooked couscous, fluffed
2 cups grape tomatoes, halved
1 cup crumbled feta (optional for vegan version)

Dressing -
Combine 2 tablespoons pesto with the juice of 1.5 lemons and slowly whisk in about 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Process -
1. After cooking the couscous according to instructions on the package, fluff the couscous and while it's still warm, measure out about 4-5 cups of the couscous into a large bowl.
2. Add the minced garlic, red onion, parsley and grape tomatoes into the couscous and toss.
3. Drizzle the dressing over the couscous, tossing lightly to ensure the dressing is incorporated through out. Add more cooked couscous if you prefer a drier couscous salad. The tomatoes, mango and dressing dampens the couscous which I prefer.
4. Toss in the crumbled feta - add more or less to taste.
5. While lightly tossing the salad, add in the mango cubes little by little, taking care not to mash them too much while mixing.
6. Squeeze some fresh lemon juice on top and some salt and black pepper to taste.

Bon appetit!

(Sidenote: For those of you in Bangkok, I was able to purchase the lemons, pre-made pesto, parsley, feta and couscous at Villa Supermarket near the Phrom Phong BTS station.)