Flashback Friday - Breakfast

Just the other day, my mum turned to me and said, "I'm sorry for the frozen foods we fed you as a kid. We didn't know any better back then!" I can't recall what compelled her to say that, but she's referring to the microwave mac n' cheese, french bread pizza and Toaster Strudel they bought so I could make it for myself when my mum or dad were traveling for work. A typical breakfast was a Toaster Strudel or two, and maybe a glass of OJ. At my grandma's house during the summer, my daily breakfast would be two eggs over easy, with buttered toast and grape jelly. To this day, that combination of salty egg yolk and sticky, sweet grape jelly makes my mouth water, and I recall the days I sat in my grandparents' dark, cool kitchen while my grandma sipped her vanilla Slimfast and smoked her second or third cigarette of the day. 

Now my breakfasts are more varied, pastries and coffee one week, homemade juice and greek yogurt the next. But it's interesting to recall those childhood breakfasts and what impressions last longest about certain types of food. I remember being surprised when Pem explained in France that eggs aren't commonly eaten for breakfast, or finding salad at the breakfast buffet in Asian hotels. 

Check out this NYT magazine article, which takes a look at what kids around the world typically eat for breakfast. Which one comes closest to what you ate as a kid?

(Photo credit: NYT article photographer, Hannah Whittaker)

Throwback Thursday - The Treehouse

Once again time has gotten the better of me, as it does. Now it is already mid-November and I have yet to share the rest of our Italian adventures from August. Alas, the show must go on - so I'm starting a Throwback Thursdays (aka "TBT") series. The series will revisit adventures and photos of months or years past that I've missed along the way. 

For this first edition of Throwback Thursday, I'm taking us to June of this year. For a friend's birthday, we traveled to the outskirts of Chiang Mai to spend our weekend away from the constant construction and traffic in the city. After a perilous drive at night in a wide van on a narrow, winding road, we arrived in utter darkness to our accommodation. The next morning, we awoke in the treetops - not another house nor human in sight. We were cocooned in nature, cut off from the rest of civilization. 

Over the weekend, we hiked to a delicious, cool waterfall in the nest of the forest, sampled homemade curry made with fresh banana flower, rode down the river on a bamboo raft and were expertly prodded and pulled by three local masseuses on the deck of the treehouse. For our friend's birthday, we toasted beers at the local 'pub' (someone's house where we drank semi-cold beers on their stoop), watched a fat lizard hunt for dinner, played some games and ate fluffy birthday cake before falling asleep under a carpet of stars. An unforgettable, and much needed, get-away to recharge.

Here are some more photos from this week's TBT...

When in Rome, Mangia! - Best Eats

 

Silky pumpkin and sage custard. Crumbly sour cherry and ricotta frolla. Fragrant, thin slices of potato rosemary pizza. These are some of the new tastes I encountered in Rome, a food-obsessed city that has delicious vegetarian options at reasonable prices (Traveling to Italy as SE Asia resident means everything seems comparatively expensive. Except for wine. Thank god for small miracles.). Here are some of my recommendations for veg-friendly feasting, guilt-free gelato and gifts for foodies.

*Where to Unwind with Friends for Hours over Wine and Good Conversation*

On our first night, we had dinner with Sebastiano and Diana, who we met via our Italian friend in Bangkok. They brought us to Meridionale in the hip Trastevere area across the river from Rome's centro storico. Sebastiano explained that Trastevere is so interesting because it's right in the heart of the city, yet it's built just like some tiny villages in the Italian countryside. This trattoria, tucked away from the bustling crowds of tourists, is instantly welcoming with its low-key but funky interior. This is where the aforementioned pumpkin and sage custard happened, incredibly creamy and bursting with rich flavor. After the antipasti, I had a decadent, perfectly peppery cacio e pepe with a lovely Italian white wine that helped cut the richness. 

Over the meal, we discussed Rome recommendations, talked about what it's like to live in Bangkok, and how challenging it is for young professionals in Italy to find suitable jobs these days. But despite the difficult times, it seemed like everyone still recognized the importance of good food, drink and company. The flow of patrons to Meridionale's few tables never stopped, even as our jet lag came crashing down and we had to leave. By then, the streets were much quieter, emptier as we strolled back to the river and I got a sense of what Sebastiano meant about the tiny Italian village. It was undoubtedly the perfect way to kick-off our exploration of Rome. Thanks, Sebastiano and Diana!

*Where to Enjoy Guilt-Free Gelato*

After our Vespa tour of the city the next afternoon, we were well overdue for some gelato. On our way back to the apartment (AirBnB = best decision ever), we popped into Cambiovita - an organic, vegetarian/vegan cafe and gelateria. Vegan options were abound, including vegan pistachio, dark chocolate and hazelnut, in addition to the usual fruit-based gelato. I went for a sour cherry and (non-vegan) cream combination that absolutely hit the spot, especially after a morning spent on the back of a scooter in relentless sun. With a mission to promote healthy and smart eating, I figured Cambiovita was a good cause and as I daintily threw back the melted dregs of my cup, I promised to return the following day.

*Where to Fuel Up Before Visiting the Vatican*

Recommended by Italian food expert/blogger Katie Parla and her amazing food app, Romeo was a much needed treat after a long morning of spontaneous exploration devolved into two hangry people (okay, maybe only one) getting lost. This restaurant/deli offers just the fuel needed to face the hordes of tourists at the Vatican later that afternoon - huge slabs of varied pizza cut and weighed to order, fresh sandwiches on pillowy foccacia, and an interesting selection of wine and craft beers. Pem had a nice glass of wine wine with an Asian take on spaghetti - green beans, sesame and some soybean paste. It was creative and tasted good, but a little too heavy and salty for me. I opted for a ladylike and delicious Duchessa beer, paired with two un-ladylike slabs of pizza - a heavenly potato-rosemary combination and another with plump cherry tomatoes, oregano, hollandaise and fresh mozzarella. Sharing was tough and the service was wonderful - a winning combination. 

*Where to Have a Romantic Dinner*

Thoroughly battered from an afternoon touring the Vatican Museums and St. Peter's Basilica, we treated ourselves to a relaxing, romantic dinner al fresco at Obika. Although a global chain, Obika started ten years ago and has been a long-time partner of the Italian Slow Food Presidia, committing to using local products and traditions. Interestingly, contrary to what one may believe are staples of Italian cuisine, none of their dishes feature garlic or onions (I was dubious, Pem was thankful). We chose their Parlamento location - tucked into the corner of a tiny piazza, it felt more like a neighborhood locals' spot.  Our waiter, who excitedly shared he was also vegetarian, recommended us a refreshing chickpea and mint salad, which we paired with a wonderful smoked mozzarella and grilled vegetable pizza. Everything went down smooth and easy, and no one remembered the missing garlic or onions at all.

*Where to Find Breakfast and Snacks for the Train to Naples*

After Katie Parla's Romeo recommendation, I decided to also follow her advice on pastries and baked goods - Roscioli. A deli/bakery with a separate restaurant, Roscioli is basically a carb-lovers' dream. Breads, pastries, and other carb-y goodness piled atop one another, smelling fresh and inviting on our last morning in Rome. We (I) determine we are going to starve on the one-hour train ride to Naples and buy enough for breakfast, lunch and dinner for the next two days. And even then, I wish I had bought more of their pizzette rustiche - mini tarts with a dollop of the most delicious tomato sauce I've ever had. Even soggy and crushed from the train ride, these were delectable. And for more days than probably recommended, we kept nibbling on their ricotta e spinaci torta, a heavy, quiche-shaped pastry that was actually much bigger, and more delicious, than it looked.

*Where to Buy Local Food Products/Gifts*

On our way to the Vatican (before the hangry phase kicked in), we stumbled upon a cute shop in Trastevere that I ended up buying basically all of my gifts from. La Cardellina is a bio/eco-friendly shop with citrus and herb-infused olive oils, organic honey grappa, and loads of natural beauty products. The fellow there was very friendly and enthusiastic about the products and the prices were right. Also, the bottles of honey, grappa, and olive oil come in various sizes so it's perfect for gift-giving to family and friends!

When in Rome...

What can one say about Italy that hasn't been said before? We had an incredible time traversing the land of abundant and stunning architecture, history and art, and sampling as many incredible wines, pizza and gelato as we dared. Over ten days, we took a Vespa tour of Rome, discovered Naples' underground scene, hiked to the crater of a volcano on the Aeolian island of Vulcano, and celebrated our friends' beautiful wedding in Reggio-Calabria.  It all went by like a flash as most vacations usually do. But I know now that my first trip to Italy will certainly not be my last! First up, some highlights from our four days in the Eternal City...

Central Rome in August feels a little bit like Washington, D.C. in summertime. Most locals have fled for more tranquil environs, and tourists, busloads of them, overtake the city. Perhaps this befalls the historically-blessed cities with culturally significant sites scattered in every neighborhood. The Pantheon, the Trevi Fountain, the Spanish Steps, the Colosseum - you can be completely clueless wandering Rome's Centro Storico and still stumble upon some grand, ancient edifice. Our Italian friend in Bangkok explained this was why Rome didn't have any central subway stations - every time they would start digging, they found another ancient ruin! This was perfect for us, since Pem and I usually have conflicting opinions about directions most of the time. 

There is no better way to get a sense of Rome than from the back of a Vespa. Our Scooteroma guides Ipatzio and Jacopo were safe and courteous drivers, and had a wealth of knowledge about their city. They showed us how the real Romans drink from the copious, and decorous, water fountains around the city -  instead of dipping your head down to drink, you plug the flow with a finger and sip from the stream of water that jets out from a small hole in the top of the nasone like a water fountain. Jacopo, a former history scholar, was particularly careful about accuracy. As we rested at the Porta San Sebastiano, he explained to us the cultural significance of the via Appia Antica, where it is said that Jesus appeared to St. Peter as he was fleeing the city and St. Peter asked him, "Domine, quo vadis?" Jesus replied, "I am going to Rome to be crucified again" after which St. Peter returned into the city and was promptly crucified. Pointing my finger down the road, I said, "Oh wow, so down this road is where it happened?" Jacopo replied with a shrug, "Well, maybe..."

The best part of our time in Rome was being able to walk everywhere and anywhere. In Bangkok, walking outdoors is usually brief and in designated areas. It was such a treat to meander the back lanes, discovering inspired street art, being quietly but carefully observed by the neighborhood cat's suspicious gaze, or tucking into a small bar for a glass of rose and being treated to complimentary, and delicious, slices of vegetarian pizza. The gelaterias every few blocks didn't hurt either, except that I still had to fit into my dress for the wedding!

Visiting St. Peter's Basilica, the Sistine Chapel and the Vatican museum were incredible, albeit overwhelming. Hundreds of tourists were waiting in line when we arrived early afternoon, and I was thankful for the Vatican museum's online booking system. However, the hordes hardly stopped from when we entered to when we left in the early evening, feet aching and minds reeling. But there would be those moments, like when you suddenly realize you're staring at Michelangelo's La Pieta or the beauty of the afternoon rays of sun streaming through the ornate, dark Basilica, to help you remember why you came in the first place.

 

 

Coming Soon...

...our Italian adventures last month in Rome, Naples, Vulcano and Reggio-Calabria. Stay tuned! 

Ciao Bella!

Does the photo make you hungry? I don't know about you but I can practically taste the charred, chewy dough and tangy tomato sauce. But I will have to resist until I arrive in the motherland. The motherland of pizza, that is!

In less than two weeks, Pem and I will be Italy-bound for our friends' wedding. We are so lucky to have friends who get hitched in awesome places. :-) This is my first time ever to Italy and per usual, I have spent an inordinate amount of time choosing where we'll be spending our precious few days. Our final itinerary starts in Rome, onto Naples (birthplace of pizza, no brainer), and then Vulcano in the Aeolian Islands before traveling onto Reggio-Calabria for the wedding. 

During my research, I've come across some great blogs with recommendations from locals and expats alike, shared below. Is it any surprise these are mainly food-focused? 

1. Parla Food. A long-time American expat in Rome, Katie Parla pretty much covers everything and anything you want to know about eating and drinking in Rome. She is a renowned local culinary authority and regularly does food tours. This blog offers particularly helpful information like which restaurants will be open during August in Rome and features mouthwatering photos (the photo above is hers). She even has an app for roaming travelers to find nearby restaurants/bars/gelaterias. 
2. Rome Digest. Top local F&B experts, including Parla, share their recommendations on where to eat, drink, shop and learn in the Eternal City. 
3. Surviving in Italy. Mostly tongue-in-cheek observations of an American expat on the realities of living la dolce vita.

And of course, please feel free to send me any recommendations of things to see/eat/do! 

Postcard from Jakarta #2

Hello again from Indonesia's bustling capital, Jakarta! I am here for a month-long assignment and it's been fascinating to be here during Ramadan and the national presidential election. The final tally of votes is still ongoing and the country is waiting for the verdict to be announced on July 22.

A young democracy that is slowly but surely maturing, Indonesia has carried out only its third presidential election ever in a largely peaceful, procedural manner. Yes, there have been irregularities. Yes, there is skepticism. But more than anything, there has been overwhelming hope and faith in the people to choose a brighter future for their country.

That said, Jakartans may be moving about cautiously over the next day or two before the election results are announced. So far though, it's been business as usual. About 6 pm or so, many Indonesians come together over snacks and tea to buka puasa, or break fast. It's a wonderful moment to observe - the street vendors smiling as they busily grill for packed tables of customers, a cab driver politely excusing himself to take a small sip of water while stopped in traffic, or the lively and large family gatherings at restaurants.

Let's hope that if people take to the streets en masse later this week, it will be to dance in celebration.

Summer Mango Couscous Salad

When I first moved to Asia, I was really excited about cooking with all of the local spices - galangal, lemongrass, kaffir lime... I had grand visions of asian sesame slaw, tempeh stir-frys and mango spring rolls. However, limited kitchen space and utensils combined with a vibrant, reasonably-priced restaurant scene means we eat out or order in almost every night.

It's been summer here in Bangkok for a few months already, but I did recently feel inspired to try a new, light salad for the season. Mango in some form (green, pale yellow, orange) is available almost year-round here, typically paired with sticky rice and coconut cream. Here I used ripe yellow mango to brighten a simple couscous salad - the juicy sweetness of the mango rounds out the punch from the red onion and complements the salty, creamy crumbs of feta. I ate this on lettuce, but I bet the couscous could serve as a nice bed for some grilled salmon or shrimp for a heartier meal.

I love couscous because there are so many salad variations you can make with it. This summer-y mango version of couscous salad is a refreshing and light lunch option, but the bold mix of flavors makes it very satisfying.

Ingredients -
1 ripe yellow mango, sliced into small cubes
1/2 small red onion, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
Small handful of parsley, finely chopped (cilantro may work too, I just had parsley on hand)
4 cups cooked couscous, fluffed
2 cups grape tomatoes, halved
1 cup crumbled feta (optional for vegan version)

Dressing -
Combine 2 tablespoons pesto with the juice of 1.5 lemons and slowly whisk in about 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Process -
1. After cooking the couscous according to instructions on the package, fluff the couscous and while it's still warm, measure out about 4-5 cups of the couscous into a large bowl.
2. Add the minced garlic, red onion, parsley and grape tomatoes into the couscous and toss.
3. Drizzle the dressing over the couscous, tossing lightly to ensure the dressing is incorporated through out. Add more cooked couscous if you prefer a drier couscous salad. The tomatoes, mango and dressing dampens the couscous which I prefer.
4. Toss in the crumbled feta - add more or less to taste.
5. While lightly tossing the salad, add in the mango cubes little by little, taking care not to mash them too much while mixing.
6. Squeeze some fresh lemon juice on top and some salt and black pepper to taste.

Bon appetit!

(Sidenote: For those of you in Bangkok, I was able to purchase the lemons, pre-made pesto, parsley, feta and couscous at Villa Supermarket near the Phrom Phong BTS station.)

Miloni & Gautam - Khao Lak, Thailand

I could use many words to describe Miloni and Gautam's wedding weekend in Khao Lak, Thailand, but I think these four letters suffice. E-P-I-C.

Held at the stunning JW Marriott in Khao Lak last month, this 3-day celebration had all the makings of an unforgettable wedding. There were fiery sunsets, an elephant, bejeweled saris, an electric violinist, late night pool parties and lots of dancing! It really was the perfect way to fete this adventuresome, life-loving couple and the union of their families.

It's impossible to choose a favorite moment, but perhaps one of the most touching was a small ceremony before the actual exchange of vows, when Miloni's side of the family gives their wishes before she officially joins her new family. Friends and family tie golden kalira onto the bride's wrists, with murmured blessings and tearful singing. She wears these golden ornaments until the end of the wedding ceremony, literally weighed down with the blessings of her loved ones. It's an incredibly intimate ceremony, quite different from the exuberance and extravagance of the rest of the celebration - something that I'll never forget.

One of my best friends and former roommates from UVa, Miloni is the kind of person you can always count on to "go big" rather than "go home". Her sense of adventure and novelty was always a significant factor driving our college shenanigans (at least that's how I remember it! :-). After college, Miloni moved to New York. Whenever we visited, she always knew the new hip spots, had opinions about the latest critically-acclaimed movie, and could talk circles around you about the happenings within Manhattan's Financial District. 

Miloni's focus is another aspect I admire most about her.  In college, when some of us were studying astronomy just for credit and debating which majors had the least requirements, Miloni already had her academic career mapped out through graduation. Apparently she wanted to pursue investment banking since the tender age of ten! So all the better when she set her sights on Gautam on the UVa campus - a man who could keep up with her and complement her in such a way that they could go big and go home together. 

These two built their relationship over nearly 7 years, across several borders and on top of many adventures around the globe. I wish the two of you all the happiness in the world as you embark on your biggest adventure yet - as Mr. and Ms. Malhotra!

 

 

Bangkok's Coup Season

It's already been over six months since Pierre and I arrived in Bangkok. And nearly two months since I went part-time with my job. It's always astounding how quickly the days pass. I'm disappointed that I haven't been able to write more here in recent months, but I'm hoping that will change soon. 

These past few months have been filled with travel, Thai New Year celebrations, spending time with family, making new friends and re-discovering Asia's City of Angels. Bangkok has been an interesting place to be during the past half year, especially over the last week. A lot about Thailand has been revealed through the ongoing political crisis that has kept the country on its toes since last October. It's been an excellent crash course on Thailand's political and social situation!

This past weekend was the first time that I've had to worry about getting home before curfew in about a decade (!). Now past the "roaring" phase of my twenties, I'll admit I'm somewhat pleased there's a military order backing my homebody nightlife. So what is there to do in the sweltering Big Mango when a coup's been declared and a curfew is in effect? 

DO - Check out Bangkok's happening coffee shop scene. Funky cafes with artisanal pastries and latte art are popping up all over the city. My new fave is Casa Lapin on Sukhumvit Soi 26 with comfy, copious seating, free wi-fi, a mouthwatering pastry display and creamy, ice-cold lattes. Your daily buzz never looked so hip. 

DO - Check the news and/or Twitter feeds (such as Richard Barrow's) for updates about the political situation before heading out of the house/hotel in the morning. The security situation can change literally overnight and areas that may have been fine to visit yesterday may not be safe today.

DON'T - Let anyone persuade you that key tourist sites such as the Emerald Buddha or Grand Palace complex are closed. These con guys try their schtick on all tourist-looking types to rope them into an elaborate gem scam all year round, but may take advantage of the uncertain security situation to further convince victims they are "helping" them. Check the place out yourself first and never trust a tuk-tuk driver that will take a fare lower than 100 baht unless you're that confident about your bargaining skills!

DO - Stay indoors as much as possible. The humidity and heat are not to be reckoned with, especially during mid-day when you break a sweat before you even step outside. Pay a visit to the Bangkok Art and Cultural Centre (BACC) or an art space like Speedy Grandma (I just love their name!). The Thailand Creative and Design Centre (TCDC) in the Emporium Mall is great for marketing and design buffs. TCDC has a lovely library and workspace, design exhibition space and store with unique, local products that make great gifts. 

DON'T - Attempt to visit an anti-coup or other protest site or take #selfies with armed soldiers. Though the city is mostly safe and calm, you can end up being in the wrong place at the wrong time in the blink of an eye. Stay up to date on what areas of the city to avoid and stay well away! 

DO - Try your hand at Thai cooking! Learn all the fragrant, exotic spices that go into crowd favorites such as green curry, papaya salad and tom yum soup. The best part is that you have total control over the spice level and you get to enjoy it all afterward! The Blue Elephant is one of Bangkok's oldest, most prestigious culinary institutions but there are several more now around the city for differing tastes and budgets. 

DO - Stop by for a refreshing tipple at one of Bangkok's many watering holes during early evening - chances are, there's a happy hour deal. Pomelo margaritas at Opposite Mess Hall, bespoke cocktails at U.N.C.L.E passion fruit pisco sours at Above Eleven, and tamarind margaritas at Maya are some of the best drinks I've had in this city thus far.

DON'T - Knock back too many drinks. This may sound obvious but I've heard some scary stories about foreigners getting spiked drinks and almost being mugged just a few minutes away from home. It's not common, but drunk foreigners are pretty obvious targets. Especially late at night in small, dark sois. Sip slowly, stick with friends and always be aware of your surroundings!

 

DON'T - Miss curfew! It's true that the curfew enforcement has been fairly relaxed in most areas of the city and some bars and nightclubs will stay open well past 10 pm. Thailand isn't a place you want to get caught missing curfew. Those lame excuses for missing curfew didn't work on your parents and they won't work now. 

DO - Keep friends and family updated of your whereabouts. Every day. Don't assume no news is good news.

DON'T  - Try to talk serious politics with locals and exert your opinion as a foreigner. Light-hearted chatting about the situation is fine (like the terrible traffic!), but be sensitive and aware this is a tense time where the unsolicited opinions of passing foreigners are not particularly welcome. 

DO - Remember that a smile and a "kop khun kha" (thank you) will take you a long way here.

Bangkok is a sprawling, incredibly complex mess of an urban soul. Spend a little while and uncover some of its mysteries...

In the Corridors of Kings

Back in February, a long-awaited travel dream of mine was finally fulfilled. Angkor Wat was everything I thought it would be - stunning feats of artistry and architecture that speak volumes about those ancient civilizations in a way that no book can. To see up close the intricate bas-reliefs carved centuries ago, and then refurbished and re-assembled in more recent decades, is incredibly powerful. I didn't always find ruins so interesting, especially in Southeast Asia where many ancient temples all start looking the same after awhile (to the untrained eye at least!). But recently, I've been fascinated by imagining what these places tell us about our predecessors, and about ourselves.

On our last morning in Siem Reap, we took a bumpy tuk-tuk ride out to Banteay Srei. We clattered along as other tuk-tuks, cars and cyclists overtook us. We passed small villages of stilt houses with immaculately swept dirt yards and chickens strutting about. Palm oil simmered in stainless steel bowls. perched on clay stoves by the roadside. The air was perfumed with the scent of the eucalyptus trees that lined the road. It was one of those wonderful moments that remind us why we travel.

In addition to Angkor Wat, Bayon and Ta Phrom, Banteay Srei is not to be missed. Though much smaller than the others, the intricacy of the carvings is unparalleled among the temples. The pink sandstone burns beautifully as the sun rises. Despite the gaggle of tourists around taking selfies, it wasn't too difficult to imagine the sophistication and spirituality of the kingdom that built Banteay Srei back in the 10th Century.

I pondered this as a taxi whisked Pem and I back into glittering downtown Bangkok from the airport later that evening. In another thousand years, what will the monuments and structures of our era say about us? With daily news about the effects of climate change on our planet, I'm less certain our lasting legacy will be one we would claim with pride.

Some photos below from my trip, if you'd like to see... 

"Myth: we have to save the earth. Frankly, the earth doesn't need to be saved. 

Nature doesn't give a hoot if human beings are here or not. The planet has survived cataclysmic and catastrophic changes for millions upon millions of years. Over that time, it is widely believed, 99 percent of all species have come and gone while the planet has remained. Saving the environment is really about saving our environment - making it safe for ourselves, our children, and the world as we know it. If more people saw the issue as one of saving themselves, we would probably see increased motivation and commitment to do so" 

- Robert M. Lilienfeld & William L. Rathje, The Sun Magazine