Postcard from Chantaburi

Chantaburi seems like a sleepy little place at first, but it sure has a lot going on underneath its surface. Bordering Cambodia, this eastern province has distinctly European and Vietnamese influences in its architectural and culinary history. A centuries old gem trading hub, jewels aren't the only attraction in town. Chantaburi is also the fruitbasket of the nation, and increasingly the world*, for tropical fruits such as durian, mangosteen and sala. The soft, tangy flesh of mangosteen is too good to resist. I probably ate my weight in mangosteen in Chantaburi!

The small streets of the old town are charming and easy to walk. Down one block, you may be enticed by the overwhelming scent of freshly baked khanom khai (think smaller, rounder madeleines). Down another, you may spot some decidedly funky street art and hip little cafes. This sleepy town has its fair share of small surprises that won't fail to put a smile on your face. And well, if it doesn't, you clearly haven't been eating enough fruit!

*According to our friend Wiki, in 2000, Chantaburi alone contributed 27% of the world's durian production!

Time for Transitions...

 

Well, my friends, where shall I begin? These last few months have been of the sort that start normally enough, perhaps with hints at occasional bouts of boredom. But soon, life grabs you by the lapels, takes you for a wild ride, and then, not a second too late, drops you off where you were actually heading all along. Home.

After ten months and ten days living in Vietnam, last week Pem and I moved to Bangkok for reasons both personal and professional. The winds of change urged us on, with their heady scent mixed of anticipation, promise and always, a touch of sadness. We've been busy unpacking and getting settled, but some photos from recent travels to Chantaburi and Ho Chi Minh City are coming soon, as well as a post on saying goodbye to Hanoi. Let the adventures continue!

Photographer Feature: Edwin Koo

Singaporean Edwin Koo is an award-winning documentary photographer whose somber, visually captivating photography tells the stories of communities living in the margins, clinging to the edges of society. Through incredible black and white imagery, Koo captures the quotidian existence of Dalit women journalists in India, Tibetan exiles in Nepal and refugees in Pakistan's Swat Valley. 

I was just introduced to Edwin Koo's work in his recent interview with The Diplomat. Koo earnestly speaks about his decision to switch from being a news journalist to an independent documentary photographer and how his focus evolved. He will also be leading his second annual photography masterclass, Kathmandu INSIDE:OUT, this December. I have to say, I'm tempted to sign myself up!

Check out Koo's portfolio here as well as his blog to view more of his stunning work...

The Tip Jar: Get 'Gramming

Over the last year, I feel like my photographic eye has really improved. I attribute this partially to my progressive transformation into an Instagram addict. Despite being a convenient way for me to justify my self-diagnosed addiction, I do genuinely think instagramming can help improve your photography. Here are a few reasons why -

(1) You're familiar with Malcolm Gladwell's "10,000 Hour Rule"? Well, Henri Cartier-Bresson said, "Your first 10,000 shots are your worst." Basically, the more you practice, the better you'll be. As you produce more photos, you develop a better sense of your photographic style and become a more informed critic of your own work. Plus the aspect of getting near instantaneous feedback from your friends or "followers" helps you discover the kind of shots (or videos, now) that elicit responses. Likewise, the ability to get daily inspiration from other photographers keeps your creative mind stimulated.

(2) I truly think it's the "community" element that makes Instagram special. In addition to giving and receiving feedback and getting inspired by other 'grammers, you can organize meetups in your area or collaborate with other photographers. It's a great way to keep up to date with friends and family all over the globe. If you're traveling soon, you can check out others' pictures from the same destination. You can also create a special hashtag for a particular event, project or cause that others' can follow or contribute to. Really it's a gathering place for visual storytelling, accessible to anyone with a camera phone, and that's what makes it so unique. 

(3) Most Instagrammers use their camera phone since it's most convenient. As they say, your best camera is the one that's with you. And actually, without the different settings, lenses and equipment at your disposal as you might with a DSLR, you're limited to focusing on the essentials - composition, tone and the story.  Less can be more. It can also be less intrusive to the scene you're intending to capture.  Everyone has a unique photographic eye and Instagram is proof of that.

So, what are you waiting for? Go forth and get 'gramming!

Discovering Ninh Binh

My parents were in town a few weeks ago, and we decided to get out of the city for something a little different. We headed southward to Ninh Binh, less than 100 km away, for a weekend getaway. It was truly the perfect place to take pause from the noise and smog of Hanoi.

Ninh Binh is most known for its scenery, which has garnered the province its nickname as the "inland Halong Bay". Instead of rising out of the sea though, the limestone formations tower over land and rivers. A popular activity is taking a boat ride down the winding river, through lotus paddies and caves. You see flocks of white cranes fishing, women neck-deep in the water searching for snails, pink pigs snuffling for food around a quiet pagoda. If you arrive early enough, before the tour groups arrive, all of this can be enjoyed in serenity. The only sound are the oars slapping the water, as your boatman rows you onward with his callused feet.

Back on land, the views are just as interesting. Always in sight, a distant chain of peaks appears to follow the curves of a sleeping dragon's back. In the foreground, smaller limestone forms appear, their white-grey rock face exposed. Standing next to these are cement plants that appear to be the size of a spacecraft launch pad. The juxtaposition of these towering structures, one made by man, the other by Mother Nature, is telling about the current situation Vietnam is in. In Vietnam's struggle to regain her earlier pace of economic growth, she recognizes there must be sacrifices. In Ninh Binh, they are ground into dust. 

"We are here to awaken from the illusion of our separateness"  

- Thich Nhat Hanh, Paper Lanterns