Postcard from Jakarta

 

Selamat pagi from Jakarta! 

I've been here for the last three weeks for work. It's been eight years since I left in 2005. This city has changed immensely since then. Mostly for the better, although the traffic is worse than ever! 

This sprawling city has recently instituted car-free Sunday mornings. Starting around 5:30 am, right outside my hotel window at the Hyatt, the techno music starts blasting to spur on the cyclists. Though sleep deprived, I felt incredibly thankful to have been reminded how stunning Jakarta sunrises are. 

Hugs from Bundaran HI!

Postcard from Chantaburi

Chantaburi seems like a sleepy little place at first, but it sure has a lot going on underneath its surface. Bordering Cambodia, this eastern province has distinctly European and Vietnamese influences in its architectural and culinary history. A centuries old gem trading hub, jewels aren't the only attraction in town. Chantaburi is also the fruitbasket of the nation, and increasingly the world*, for tropical fruits such as durian, mangosteen and sala. The soft, tangy flesh of mangosteen is too good to resist. I probably ate my weight in mangosteen in Chantaburi!

The small streets of the old town are charming and easy to walk. Down one block, you may be enticed by the overwhelming scent of freshly baked khanom khai (think smaller, rounder madeleines). Down another, you may spot some decidedly funky street art and hip little cafes. This sleepy town has its fair share of small surprises that won't fail to put a smile on your face. And well, if it doesn't, you clearly haven't been eating enough fruit!

*According to our friend Wiki, in 2000, Chantaburi alone contributed 27% of the world's durian production!

Time for Transitions...

 

Well, my friends, where shall I begin? These last few months have been of the sort that start normally enough, perhaps with hints at occasional bouts of boredom. But soon, life grabs you by the lapels, takes you for a wild ride, and then, not a second too late, drops you off where you were actually heading all along. Home.

After ten months and ten days living in Vietnam, last week Pem and I moved to Bangkok for reasons both personal and professional. The winds of change urged us on, with their heady scent mixed of anticipation, promise and always, a touch of sadness. We've been busy unpacking and getting settled, but some photos from recent travels to Chantaburi and Ho Chi Minh City are coming soon, as well as a post on saying goodbye to Hanoi. Let the adventures continue!

Photographer Feature: Edwin Koo

Singaporean Edwin Koo is an award-winning documentary photographer whose somber, visually captivating photography tells the stories of communities living in the margins, clinging to the edges of society. Through incredible black and white imagery, Koo captures the quotidian existence of Dalit women journalists in India, Tibetan exiles in Nepal and refugees in Pakistan's Swat Valley. 

I was just introduced to Edwin Koo's work in his recent interview with The Diplomat. Koo earnestly speaks about his decision to switch from being a news journalist to an independent documentary photographer and how his focus evolved. He will also be leading his second annual photography masterclass, Kathmandu INSIDE:OUT, this December. I have to say, I'm tempted to sign myself up!

Check out Koo's portfolio here as well as his blog to view more of his stunning work...

The Tip Jar: Get 'Gramming

Over the last year, I feel like my photographic eye has really improved. I attribute this partially to my progressive transformation into an Instagram addict. Despite being a convenient way for me to justify my self-diagnosed addiction, I do genuinely think instagramming can help improve your photography. Here are a few reasons why -

(1) You're familiar with Malcolm Gladwell's "10,000 Hour Rule"? Well, Henri Cartier-Bresson said, "Your first 10,000 shots are your worst." Basically, the more you practice, the better you'll be. As you produce more photos, you develop a better sense of your photographic style and become a more informed critic of your own work. Plus the aspect of getting near instantaneous feedback from your friends or "followers" helps you discover the kind of shots (or videos, now) that elicit responses. Likewise, the ability to get daily inspiration from other photographers keeps your creative mind stimulated.

(2) I truly think it's the "community" element that makes Instagram special. In addition to giving and receiving feedback and getting inspired by other 'grammers, you can organize meetups in your area or collaborate with other photographers. It's a great way to keep up to date with friends and family all over the globe. If you're traveling soon, you can check out others' pictures from the same destination. You can also create a special hashtag for a particular event, project or cause that others' can follow or contribute to. Really it's a gathering place for visual storytelling, accessible to anyone with a camera phone, and that's what makes it so unique. 

(3) Most Instagrammers use their camera phone since it's most convenient. As they say, your best camera is the one that's with you. And actually, without the different settings, lenses and equipment at your disposal as you might with a DSLR, you're limited to focusing on the essentials - composition, tone and the story.  Less can be more. It can also be less intrusive to the scene you're intending to capture.  Everyone has a unique photographic eye and Instagram is proof of that.

So, what are you waiting for? Go forth and get 'gramming!

Discovering Ninh Binh

My parents were in town a few weeks ago, and we decided to get out of the city for something a little different. We headed southward to Ninh Binh, less than 100 km away, for a weekend getaway. It was truly the perfect place to take pause from the noise and smog of Hanoi.

Ninh Binh is most known for its scenery, which has garnered the province its nickname as the "inland Halong Bay". Instead of rising out of the sea though, the limestone formations tower over land and rivers. A popular activity is taking a boat ride down the winding river, through lotus paddies and caves. You see flocks of white cranes fishing, women neck-deep in the water searching for snails, pink pigs snuffling for food around a quiet pagoda. If you arrive early enough, before the tour groups arrive, all of this can be enjoyed in serenity. The only sound are the oars slapping the water, as your boatman rows you onward with his callused feet.

Back on land, the views are just as interesting. Always in sight, a distant chain of peaks appears to follow the curves of a sleeping dragon's back. In the foreground, smaller limestone forms appear, their white-grey rock face exposed. Standing next to these are cement plants that appear to be the size of a spacecraft launch pad. The juxtaposition of these towering structures, one made by man, the other by Mother Nature, is telling about the current situation Vietnam is in. In Vietnam's struggle to regain her earlier pace of economic growth, she recognizes there must be sacrifices. In Ninh Binh, they are ground into dust. 

"We are here to awaken from the illusion of our separateness"  

- Thich Nhat Hanh, Paper Lanterns

 

Dolma Tip Jar: Get Jetset

Inspired by this recent CNN article on "travel don'ts" (thanks for sending, Dad!), I thought I'd share a few travel tips I've accumulated across the years. I've done my fair share of international travel, ever since taking my first international flight just after my first birthday. No matter how long ago you were first bitten by that travel bug, those pangs for adventure never seem to fade entirely. 

A true adventure is never without the possibility of danger. It's about leaving all that is comfortable and familiar behind for a destination that beckons with whispered promises of mystery and magic. But who can be excited for the mystery and the magic when, upon arrival, you discover that you don't have enough cash for your visa, your lotion has exploded all over the contents of your carry-on, and the only local contact numbers you have are plugged into your cell phone, which is now battery dead? Don't be that guy. 

Here's the thing - all those debonair looking travelers who seem to have it together effortlessly are just really well prepared. Or their assistants are. Put in the leg work on the front end and spare yourself the tedious crap. Then when you're on the road, you have the energy and flexible attitude to deal with the larger dilemmas that sometime come with traveling. Like what to do when a monkey sinks his teeth into your leg. Or how to properly respond to a young, drunk armed soldier who feels like messing with a foreigner's mind. Or find out the least guilt-inducing way to handle encounters with the tiny, undernourished and yet seemingly indefatigable street kids who ask you for money, candy, pencils, every step of your walk through town. Or figuring out whether you can ever return to your former life or if you wouldn't rather prefer wandering for the rest of your days. 

"To feel at home, stay at home" - Clifton Fadiman, Paper Lanterns

1) Photocopy your passport (and visa page, if applicable). Keep one or two copies for yourself (separate from your actual passport), keep a copy at home and give a copy to a friend or family member. Just don't do it right before you hop in a taxi for the airport and leave your actual passport lying on the scanner bed at home (yep, I did that). 

2) Put liquids and gels in a zip-lock bag. Not only does it help you figure out whether your expensive face cream might get tossed by airport security, but you'll protect your other packed items from damage if a bottle breaks or bursts in transit.

3) If you're traveling on business (or any trip, really), always pack one proper outfit in your carry-on. If your checked luggage doesn't arrive to your destination at the same time you do, you'll at least have one other outfit to wear to that first day of meetings. Avoid spending your first day in a new place having to go clothes shopping. Unless that's what you enjoy, of course. 

4) Always carry at least one crisp, clean $100 USD bill in case of emergencies. I prefer to carry at least two per traveler, in separate bags. ATM cards get eaten. Credit cards get denied. Just have a backup method of payment. Because we all know - no money, no funny.

5) Don't assume you can buy a visa upon arrival. Check the requirements and have the right application materials, or better, get it in advance from the Embassy. 

6) Always know where you are sleeping your first night (at least!). There's a lot to take in when you first arrive to a destination (even if it's a relatively familiar one to you). The last thing you want to do after a long flight is hotel hopping to see if they have any availability.

7) Have a list of local emergency contacts handy. Before you leave, ask friends and family if they know anyone living in your destination city or country. Troll Facebook. The world is getting smaller, so your chances are high. At least have the address and contact number of your Embassy and your emergency contacts at home written down. Like with a pen, on a piece of paper. Phones can die, get stolen or fall out of back pockets and drown in the toilet. Again, do yourself a favor and have a back-up.

8) Don't put all your cash and your passport in the same place. And for Pete's sake, don't put your passport in your wallet. I did that. My wallet got stolen, and instead of just dealing with foregone cash and credit cards (which sucks), I had to deal with a stolen passport (which sucks even more). This is where a photocopy of your passport comes in handy. 

9) If you're traveling internationally, get to the airport at least two hours before your flight. Ok, I get to airports freakishly early compared to my colleagues and most other people I know. But you know what? This practice has given me peace of mind, and in some cases, second chances. I'm almost ashamed to say this as such a frequent traveler, but I've gone to the wrong airport before twice. I didn't check my itinerary closely enough, I assumed I was leaving out of one airport and when I got to the check-in counter, they couldn't find my itinerary. But I had enough time to find a taxi and get to the correct airport and make my original flight.

10) Don't assume that you can get away with doing foolhardy or illegal things just because you're a foreigner. The chances of doing either increases proportionately with the amount of drinking you do. Be respectful and remember you're a guest. Likewise, don't assume that every open smile is an honest one and listen to your instincts. Maintaining a healthy sense of perspective is key (i.e. do you really want to make a huge fuss over being cheated $1?).

11) Carry mild pain relievers (Advil, Tylenol, paracemetol), Pepto-Bismol and Imodium, plus any required medications with you. Pharmacies may not have or understand what you need. If you do need a pharmacy, try to go to one that is connected to or near a hospital and has other customers in line! 

12) If you're going to hit the local street food scene your first day, go to a place with a line, or full tables. Chances are higher that the food is tasty and safe.

13) Don't see a new place entirely through the lens of your camera or video-cam. Sounds funny coming from a photo blogger, but I mean it. No moment of your life can truly, entirely be captured by any type of film. Take a break and just breathe it in.

14) Last, but certainly not least, keep a smile and an open mind. You're having an adventure! There will be mishaps. There may even be some danger. A real adventure isn't supposed to be easy. But you can always, always count on a once of a lifetime experience after which you will never be the same.

Did I miss any big ones? Or not spontaneous enough? What are some of your tips for travelers?

Scenes from Sapa

After a few weeks at home in Hanoi, Pem and I started to feel the familiar stirrings of wanderlust. We decided now was the time to see Sapa. In the misty hours early one Friday morning, our overnight train delivered us, groggy and aching from our rumbling slumber, to Lao Cai station in Northern Vietnam. We were so far north in fact, that we were nearly at the China border. We hopped into a shuttle with some other foreigners and headed southwest towards Sapa.

A former French hill station in the early 20th century, Sapa is nestled within the mountains at an altitude of 1,600 m. Up above, mist swirled around craggly peaks. Down below, the rushing Red River wound between verdant rice paddies ready for harvest. It was rainy and humid during most of our visit, not the cool weather we had been hoping for (during winter months, there is frost and sometimes even snow!). But when the grey skies broke and the sun shone upon the valley for a few hours every afternoon, the views were well worth the wait. 

In the mornings, our walks around town were peppered with persistent, but friendly, ethnic minority women plying their wares. In the afternoons, after lunch at The Hill Station or Baguette et Chocolat, we set about the surrounding villages by foot or by motorbike. In the evenings, we relaxed with some drinks at the Hmong Sisters Bar and watched male foreigners playing pool with two lovely, but ruthless, local women (the Hmong sisters?) who would flip their waist-long hair over their shoulders as they prepared to sink the winning shot. In the cool night air, we walked the quiet streets to our hotel, Sapa Rooms, and in no time, we surrounded ourselves with the gauzy mosquito net and drifted into the haze of dreams.

On our last evening, we rushed to the edge of town to try and catch the sunset. The road ended and the sun was setting just around the edge of the next peak, out of view. As we turned around to return into town, beyond the dark and quiet valley, we saw one, then another, then another, countless bursts of lightning in the distance. The bolts of lightning were so forceful they lit the valley below for just a few seconds at a time. I tried to capture what we were seeing on video, but it hardly did the experience justice. There was this feeling, as if we were witnessing a secret communion between heaven and earth. There are just a handful of moments in life, if you're lucky, where you're struck by the sheer immensity and unmistakeable majesty of that unfolding before you. This was one of those moments.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Goûts du Maroc

Sweet, juicy orange slices à la cannelle before boarding our train to Marrakech - Plump purple and yellow olives, bursting tartly in our mouths as we watched the evening scene unfold in the Meknes' zoological garden - Fighting for the last miniature crispy briouates oozing with warm Nutella after a morning spent exploring le Jardin Majorelle - Sampling spoon after spoon of herbed honeys in Casablanca's old quarter - A local Meknes mother stopping in the street to let us try freshly made kaab el Ghazal, still warm from her oven - Savoring homemade confiture d'abricot and tangy yoghurt on spongy pancakes in a quiet olive grove - Sipping hot, sweet mint tea with almond cookies on the roof, as dusk descended over Fes and the evening calls to prayer began, one after another after another, the chorus enveloping us until there was no other sound.

Last night Pem and I went to Hanoi's one and only Moroccan restaurant, Le Marrakech. Our dinner brought me back to these favorite gastronomic memories from our adventure in Morocco two months ago. If you were able to read that previous paragraph closely enough, without your tastebuds urging your mind elsewhere, you may have noticed that not once did I mention 'tajine' or 'couscous'. Don't get me wrong - we had some tasty couscous and tajines during our trip. However, being vegetarian severely limited our tajine and couscous choices and though some restaurants offered slight variations, I thought they all tasted pretty much the same. Most lunches and dinners hardly left a lasting impression. Rather, it was at the breakfast table, in the souk, or during tea time that I had some of my most vivid encounters with the tastes of Morocco.

Below are a few tidbits, if you'd like to see...

Shots from the Train

I've been battling a cold the last few days so I haven't been able to make any progress on that promised post about our tasting tour of Morocco. I suspect the beginnings of this cold were caught in Sapa. Pem and I were visiting this mountain town in northern Vietnam for a 3-day weekend. I loved it and look forward to sharing photos soon. For now, here are a few shots taken from the train of the Moroccan countryside.

 

 

Moroccan Adventures Part 5 - The Finale

"There is a third dimension to traveling: the longing for what is beyond" 
- Jan Myrdal, Lanterns 

We arrived into Meknes on a Friday, after two active days in Fes. On this holy day in the former Moroccan capital, the streets were calm and people moved slowly. It was a welcome change. Our week of non-stop touring was starting to wear on us. Thankfully our guesthouse, the Riad Safir, was a stunning and soothing retreat. After enjoying some fresh jus d'orange and cinnamon-sugared cookies upon check-in, we set out. We ambled through the sleepy souk and munched on purple olives in the jardin zoologique. Then, a horse-drawn carriage ride just as the golden hour descended upon the ancient city. I felt as though we were moving in a different time, my heart heavy with anticipation of the inevitable return to the familar.

Though that's the end of our journey, it's not quite the end of the story. More to come soon on Moroccan food and travel recommendations. For now, some photos below so you can see a little of the magic of Meknes*... 

*The last few photos are from Casablanca, where we spent our final evening before an early morning return flight home.