Photographer Feature: Edwin Koo

Singaporean Edwin Koo is an award-winning documentary photographer whose somber, visually captivating photography tells the stories of communities living in the margins, clinging to the edges of society. Through incredible black and white imagery, Koo captures the quotidian existence of Dalit women journalists in India, Tibetan exiles in Nepal and refugees in Pakistan's Swat Valley. 

I was just introduced to Edwin Koo's work in his recent interview with The Diplomat. Koo earnestly speaks about his decision to switch from being a news journalist to an independent documentary photographer and how his focus evolved. He will also be leading his second annual photography masterclass, Kathmandu INSIDE:OUT, this December. I have to say, I'm tempted to sign myself up!

Check out Koo's portfolio here as well as his blog to view more of his stunning work...

The Tip Jar: Get 'Gramming

Over the last year, I feel like my photographic eye has really improved. I attribute this partially to my progressive transformation into an Instagram addict. Despite being a convenient way for me to justify my self-diagnosed addiction, I do genuinely think instagramming can help improve your photography. Here are a few reasons why -

(1) You're familiar with Malcolm Gladwell's "10,000 Hour Rule"? Well, Henri Cartier-Bresson said, "Your first 10,000 shots are your worst." Basically, the more you practice, the better you'll be. As you produce more photos, you develop a better sense of your photographic style and become a more informed critic of your own work. Plus the aspect of getting near instantaneous feedback from your friends or "followers" helps you discover the kind of shots (or videos, now) that elicit responses. Likewise, the ability to get daily inspiration from other photographers keeps your creative mind stimulated.

(2) I truly think it's the "community" element that makes Instagram special. In addition to giving and receiving feedback and getting inspired by other 'grammers, you can organize meetups in your area or collaborate with other photographers. It's a great way to keep up to date with friends and family all over the globe. If you're traveling soon, you can check out others' pictures from the same destination. You can also create a special hashtag for a particular event, project or cause that others' can follow or contribute to. Really it's a gathering place for visual storytelling, accessible to anyone with a camera phone, and that's what makes it so unique. 

(3) Most Instagrammers use their camera phone since it's most convenient. As they say, your best camera is the one that's with you. And actually, without the different settings, lenses and equipment at your disposal as you might with a DSLR, you're limited to focusing on the essentials - composition, tone and the story.  Less can be more. It can also be less intrusive to the scene you're intending to capture.  Everyone has a unique photographic eye and Instagram is proof of that.

So, what are you waiting for? Go forth and get 'gramming!

Discovering Ninh Binh

My parents were in town a few weeks ago, and we decided to get out of the city for something a little different. We headed southward to Ninh Binh, less than 100 km away, for a weekend getaway. It was truly the perfect place to take pause from the noise and smog of Hanoi.

Ninh Binh is most known for its scenery, which has garnered the province its nickname as the "inland Halong Bay". Instead of rising out of the sea though, the limestone formations tower over land and rivers. A popular activity is taking a boat ride down the winding river, through lotus paddies and caves. You see flocks of white cranes fishing, women neck-deep in the water searching for snails, pink pigs snuffling for food around a quiet pagoda. If you arrive early enough, before the tour groups arrive, all of this can be enjoyed in serenity. The only sound are the oars slapping the water, as your boatman rows you onward with his callused feet.

Back on land, the views are just as interesting. Always in sight, a distant chain of peaks appears to follow the curves of a sleeping dragon's back. In the foreground, smaller limestone forms appear, their white-grey rock face exposed. Standing next to these are cement plants that appear to be the size of a spacecraft launch pad. The juxtaposition of these towering structures, one made by man, the other by Mother Nature, is telling about the current situation Vietnam is in. In Vietnam's struggle to regain her earlier pace of economic growth, she recognizes there must be sacrifices. In Ninh Binh, they are ground into dust. 

"We are here to awaken from the illusion of our separateness"  

- Thich Nhat Hanh, Paper Lanterns

 

Dolma Tip Jar: Get Jetset

Inspired by this recent CNN article on "travel don'ts" (thanks for sending, Dad!), I thought I'd share a few travel tips I've accumulated across the years. I've done my fair share of international travel, ever since taking my first international flight just after my first birthday. No matter how long ago you were first bitten by that travel bug, those pangs for adventure never seem to fade entirely. 

A true adventure is never without the possibility of danger. It's about leaving all that is comfortable and familiar behind for a destination that beckons with whispered promises of mystery and magic. But who can be excited for the mystery and the magic when, upon arrival, you discover that you don't have enough cash for your visa, your lotion has exploded all over the contents of your carry-on, and the only local contact numbers you have are plugged into your cell phone, which is now battery dead? Don't be that guy. 

Here's the thing - all those debonair looking travelers who seem to have it together effortlessly are just really well prepared. Or their assistants are. Put in the leg work on the front end and spare yourself the tedious crap. Then when you're on the road, you have the energy and flexible attitude to deal with the larger dilemmas that sometime come with traveling. Like what to do when a monkey sinks his teeth into your leg. Or how to properly respond to a young, drunk armed soldier who feels like messing with a foreigner's mind. Or find out the least guilt-inducing way to handle encounters with the tiny, undernourished and yet seemingly indefatigable street kids who ask you for money, candy, pencils, every step of your walk through town. Or figuring out whether you can ever return to your former life or if you wouldn't rather prefer wandering for the rest of your days. 

"To feel at home, stay at home" - Clifton Fadiman, Paper Lanterns

1) Photocopy your passport (and visa page, if applicable). Keep one or two copies for yourself (separate from your actual passport), keep a copy at home and give a copy to a friend or family member. Just don't do it right before you hop in a taxi for the airport and leave your actual passport lying on the scanner bed at home (yep, I did that). 

2) Put liquids and gels in a zip-lock bag. Not only does it help you figure out whether your expensive face cream might get tossed by airport security, but you'll protect your other packed items from damage if a bottle breaks or bursts in transit.

3) If you're traveling on business (or any trip, really), always pack one proper outfit in your carry-on. If your checked luggage doesn't arrive to your destination at the same time you do, you'll at least have one other outfit to wear to that first day of meetings. Avoid spending your first day in a new place having to go clothes shopping. Unless that's what you enjoy, of course. 

4) Always carry at least one crisp, clean $100 USD bill in case of emergencies. I prefer to carry at least two per traveler, in separate bags. ATM cards get eaten. Credit cards get denied. Just have a backup method of payment. Because we all know - no money, no funny.

5) Don't assume you can buy a visa upon arrival. Check the requirements and have the right application materials, or better, get it in advance from the Embassy. 

6) Always know where you are sleeping your first night (at least!). There's a lot to take in when you first arrive to a destination (even if it's a relatively familiar one to you). The last thing you want to do after a long flight is hotel hopping to see if they have any availability.

7) Have a list of local emergency contacts handy. Before you leave, ask friends and family if they know anyone living in your destination city or country. Troll Facebook. The world is getting smaller, so your chances are high. At least have the address and contact number of your Embassy and your emergency contacts at home written down. Like with a pen, on a piece of paper. Phones can die, get stolen or fall out of back pockets and drown in the toilet. Again, do yourself a favor and have a back-up.

8) Don't put all your cash and your passport in the same place. And for Pete's sake, don't put your passport in your wallet. I did that. My wallet got stolen, and instead of just dealing with foregone cash and credit cards (which sucks), I had to deal with a stolen passport (which sucks even more). This is where a photocopy of your passport comes in handy. 

9) If you're traveling internationally, get to the airport at least two hours before your flight. Ok, I get to airports freakishly early compared to my colleagues and most other people I know. But you know what? This practice has given me peace of mind, and in some cases, second chances. I'm almost ashamed to say this as such a frequent traveler, but I've gone to the wrong airport before twice. I didn't check my itinerary closely enough, I assumed I was leaving out of one airport and when I got to the check-in counter, they couldn't find my itinerary. But I had enough time to find a taxi and get to the correct airport and make my original flight.

10) Don't assume that you can get away with doing foolhardy or illegal things just because you're a foreigner. The chances of doing either increases proportionately with the amount of drinking you do. Be respectful and remember you're a guest. Likewise, don't assume that every open smile is an honest one and listen to your instincts. Maintaining a healthy sense of perspective is key (i.e. do you really want to make a huge fuss over being cheated $1?).

11) Carry mild pain relievers (Advil, Tylenol, paracemetol), Pepto-Bismol and Imodium, plus any required medications with you. Pharmacies may not have or understand what you need. If you do need a pharmacy, try to go to one that is connected to or near a hospital and has other customers in line! 

12) If you're going to hit the local street food scene your first day, go to a place with a line, or full tables. Chances are higher that the food is tasty and safe.

13) Don't see a new place entirely through the lens of your camera or video-cam. Sounds funny coming from a photo blogger, but I mean it. No moment of your life can truly, entirely be captured by any type of film. Take a break and just breathe it in.

14) Last, but certainly not least, keep a smile and an open mind. You're having an adventure! There will be mishaps. There may even be some danger. A real adventure isn't supposed to be easy. But you can always, always count on a once of a lifetime experience after which you will never be the same.

Did I miss any big ones? Or not spontaneous enough? What are some of your tips for travelers?