Ciao Bella!

Does the photo make you hungry? I don't know about you but I can practically taste the charred, chewy dough and tangy tomato sauce. But I will have to resist until I arrive in the motherland. The motherland of pizza, that is!

In less than two weeks, Pem and I will be Italy-bound for our friends' wedding. We are so lucky to have friends who get hitched in awesome places. :-) This is my first time ever to Italy and per usual, I have spent an inordinate amount of time choosing where we'll be spending our precious few days. Our final itinerary starts in Rome, onto Naples (birthplace of pizza, no brainer), and then Vulcano in the Aeolian Islands before traveling onto Reggio-Calabria for the wedding. 

During my research, I've come across some great blogs with recommendations from locals and expats alike, shared below. Is it any surprise these are mainly food-focused? 

1. Parla Food. A long-time American expat in Rome, Katie Parla pretty much covers everything and anything you want to know about eating and drinking in Rome. She is a renowned local culinary authority and regularly does food tours. This blog offers particularly helpful information like which restaurants will be open during August in Rome and features mouthwatering photos (the photo above is hers). She even has an app for roaming travelers to find nearby restaurants/bars/gelaterias. 
2. Rome Digest. Top local F&B experts, including Parla, share their recommendations on where to eat, drink, shop and learn in the Eternal City. 
3. Surviving in Italy. Mostly tongue-in-cheek observations of an American expat on the realities of living la dolce vita.

And of course, please feel free to send me any recommendations of things to see/eat/do! 

Postcard from Jakarta #2

Hello again from Indonesia's bustling capital, Jakarta! I am here for a month-long assignment and it's been fascinating to be here during Ramadan and the national presidential election. The final tally of votes is still ongoing and the country is waiting for the verdict to be announced on July 22.

A young democracy that is slowly but surely maturing, Indonesia has carried out only its third presidential election ever in a largely peaceful, procedural manner. Yes, there have been irregularities. Yes, there is skepticism. But more than anything, there has been overwhelming hope and faith in the people to choose a brighter future for their country.

That said, Jakartans may be moving about cautiously over the next day or two before the election results are announced. So far though, it's been business as usual. About 6 pm or so, many Indonesians come together over snacks and tea to buka puasa, or break fast. It's a wonderful moment to observe - the street vendors smiling as they busily grill for packed tables of customers, a cab driver politely excusing himself to take a small sip of water while stopped in traffic, or the lively and large family gatherings at restaurants.

Let's hope that if people take to the streets en masse later this week, it will be to dance in celebration.

Summer Mango Couscous Salad

When I first moved to Asia, I was really excited about cooking with all of the local spices - galangal, lemongrass, kaffir lime... I had grand visions of asian sesame slaw, tempeh stir-frys and mango spring rolls. However, limited kitchen space and utensils combined with a vibrant, reasonably-priced restaurant scene means we eat out or order in almost every night.

It's been summer here in Bangkok for a few months already, but I did recently feel inspired to try a new, light salad for the season. Mango in some form (green, pale yellow, orange) is available almost year-round here, typically paired with sticky rice and coconut cream. Here I used ripe yellow mango to brighten a simple couscous salad - the juicy sweetness of the mango rounds out the punch from the red onion and complements the salty, creamy crumbs of feta. I ate this on lettuce, but I bet the couscous could serve as a nice bed for some grilled salmon or shrimp for a heartier meal.

I love couscous because there are so many salad variations you can make with it. This summer-y mango version of couscous salad is a refreshing and light lunch option, but the bold mix of flavors makes it very satisfying.

Ingredients -
1 ripe yellow mango, sliced into small cubes
1/2 small red onion, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
Small handful of parsley, finely chopped (cilantro may work too, I just had parsley on hand)
4 cups cooked couscous, fluffed
2 cups grape tomatoes, halved
1 cup crumbled feta (optional for vegan version)

Dressing -
Combine 2 tablespoons pesto with the juice of 1.5 lemons and slowly whisk in about 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Process -
1. After cooking the couscous according to instructions on the package, fluff the couscous and while it's still warm, measure out about 4-5 cups of the couscous into a large bowl.
2. Add the minced garlic, red onion, parsley and grape tomatoes into the couscous and toss.
3. Drizzle the dressing over the couscous, tossing lightly to ensure the dressing is incorporated through out. Add more cooked couscous if you prefer a drier couscous salad. The tomatoes, mango and dressing dampens the couscous which I prefer.
4. Toss in the crumbled feta - add more or less to taste.
5. While lightly tossing the salad, add in the mango cubes little by little, taking care not to mash them too much while mixing.
6. Squeeze some fresh lemon juice on top and some salt and black pepper to taste.

Bon appetit!

(Sidenote: For those of you in Bangkok, I was able to purchase the lemons, pre-made pesto, parsley, feta and couscous at Villa Supermarket near the Phrom Phong BTS station.)

Miloni & Gautam - Khao Lak, Thailand

I could use many words to describe Miloni and Gautam's wedding weekend in Khao Lak, Thailand, but I think these four letters suffice. E-P-I-C.

Held at the stunning JW Marriott in Khao Lak last month, this 3-day celebration had all the makings of an unforgettable wedding. There were fiery sunsets, an elephant, bejeweled saris, an electric violinist, late night pool parties and lots of dancing! It really was the perfect way to fete this adventuresome, life-loving couple and the union of their families.

It's impossible to choose a favorite moment, but perhaps one of the most touching was a small ceremony before the actual exchange of vows, when Miloni's side of the family gives their wishes before she officially joins her new family. Friends and family tie golden kalira onto the bride's wrists, with murmured blessings and tearful singing. She wears these golden ornaments until the end of the wedding ceremony, literally weighed down with the blessings of her loved ones. It's an incredibly intimate ceremony, quite different from the exuberance and extravagance of the rest of the celebration - something that I'll never forget.

One of my best friends and former roommates from UVa, Miloni is the kind of person you can always count on to "go big" rather than "go home". Her sense of adventure and novelty was always a significant factor driving our college shenanigans (at least that's how I remember it! :-). After college, Miloni moved to New York. Whenever we visited, she always knew the new hip spots, had opinions about the latest critically-acclaimed movie, and could talk circles around you about the happenings within Manhattan's Financial District. 

Miloni's focus is another aspect I admire most about her.  In college, when some of us were studying astronomy just for credit and debating which majors had the least requirements, Miloni already had her academic career mapped out through graduation. Apparently she wanted to pursue investment banking since the tender age of ten! So all the better when she set her sights on Gautam on the UVa campus - a man who could keep up with her and complement her in such a way that they could go big and go home together. 

These two built their relationship over nearly 7 years, across several borders and on top of many adventures around the globe. I wish the two of you all the happiness in the world as you embark on your biggest adventure yet - as Mr. and Ms. Malhotra!

 

 

Bangkok's Coup Season

It's already been over six months since Pierre and I arrived in Bangkok. And nearly two months since I went part-time with my job. It's always astounding how quickly the days pass. I'm disappointed that I haven't been able to write more here in recent months, but I'm hoping that will change soon. 

These past few months have been filled with travel, Thai New Year celebrations, spending time with family, making new friends and re-discovering Asia's City of Angels. Bangkok has been an interesting place to be during the past half year, especially over the last week. A lot about Thailand has been revealed through the ongoing political crisis that has kept the country on its toes since last October. It's been an excellent crash course on Thailand's political and social situation!

This past weekend was the first time that I've had to worry about getting home before curfew in about a decade (!). Now past the "roaring" phase of my twenties, I'll admit I'm somewhat pleased there's a military order backing my homebody nightlife. So what is there to do in the sweltering Big Mango when a coup's been declared and a curfew is in effect? 

DO - Check out Bangkok's happening coffee shop scene. Funky cafes with artisanal pastries and latte art are popping up all over the city. My new fave is Casa Lapin on Sukhumvit Soi 26 with comfy, copious seating, free wi-fi, a mouthwatering pastry display and creamy, ice-cold lattes. Your daily buzz never looked so hip. 

DO - Check the news and/or Twitter feeds (such as Richard Barrow's) for updates about the political situation before heading out of the house/hotel in the morning. The security situation can change literally overnight and areas that may have been fine to visit yesterday may not be safe today.

DON'T - Let anyone persuade you that key tourist sites such as the Emerald Buddha or Grand Palace complex are closed. These con guys try their schtick on all tourist-looking types to rope them into an elaborate gem scam all year round, but may take advantage of the uncertain security situation to further convince victims they are "helping" them. Check the place out yourself first and never trust a tuk-tuk driver that will take a fare lower than 100 baht unless you're that confident about your bargaining skills!

DO - Stay indoors as much as possible. The humidity and heat are not to be reckoned with, especially during mid-day when you break a sweat before you even step outside. Pay a visit to the Bangkok Art and Cultural Centre (BACC) or an art space like Speedy Grandma (I just love their name!). The Thailand Creative and Design Centre (TCDC) in the Emporium Mall is great for marketing and design buffs. TCDC has a lovely library and workspace, design exhibition space and store with unique, local products that make great gifts. 

DON'T - Attempt to visit an anti-coup or other protest site or take #selfies with armed soldiers. Though the city is mostly safe and calm, you can end up being in the wrong place at the wrong time in the blink of an eye. Stay up to date on what areas of the city to avoid and stay well away! 

DO - Try your hand at Thai cooking! Learn all the fragrant, exotic spices that go into crowd favorites such as green curry, papaya salad and tom yum soup. The best part is that you have total control over the spice level and you get to enjoy it all afterward! The Blue Elephant is one of Bangkok's oldest, most prestigious culinary institutions but there are several more now around the city for differing tastes and budgets. 

DO - Stop by for a refreshing tipple at one of Bangkok's many watering holes during early evening - chances are, there's a happy hour deal. Pomelo margaritas at Opposite Mess Hall, bespoke cocktails at U.N.C.L.E passion fruit pisco sours at Above Eleven, and tamarind margaritas at Maya are some of the best drinks I've had in this city thus far.

DON'T - Knock back too many drinks. This may sound obvious but I've heard some scary stories about foreigners getting spiked drinks and almost being mugged just a few minutes away from home. It's not common, but drunk foreigners are pretty obvious targets. Especially late at night in small, dark sois. Sip slowly, stick with friends and always be aware of your surroundings!

 

DON'T - Miss curfew! It's true that the curfew enforcement has been fairly relaxed in most areas of the city and some bars and nightclubs will stay open well past 10 pm. Thailand isn't a place you want to get caught missing curfew. Those lame excuses for missing curfew didn't work on your parents and they won't work now. 

DO - Keep friends and family updated of your whereabouts. Every day. Don't assume no news is good news.

DON'T  - Try to talk serious politics with locals and exert your opinion as a foreigner. Light-hearted chatting about the situation is fine (like the terrible traffic!), but be sensitive and aware this is a tense time where the unsolicited opinions of passing foreigners are not particularly welcome. 

DO - Remember that a smile and a "kop khun kha" (thank you) will take you a long way here.

Bangkok is a sprawling, incredibly complex mess of an urban soul. Spend a little while and uncover some of its mysteries...