The City of Lanterns

On Boxing Day, we left the imperial city of Hue to head south by taxi to Hoi An - a small, charming town that was once a bustling hub for maritime trade and thus features Chinese, Japanese, Vietnamese and European architectural and cultural influences.

We requested our taxi driver to drive through the Hai Van pass - an opportunity to stretch our legs, buy some snacks (and pearls!) and take in the sweeping views of the East Vietnam Sea. After another stop in Danang for lunch at the chill, lounge-y Waterfront Restaurant, we continued south.

Not at all knowing what to expect, I was pleasantly surprised by the intimate feel of the town. Small winding lanes are banked by low, shuttered houses with beautiful wooden facades. Officially granted UNESCO World Heritage status in 1999, the old center of Hoi An retains a unique, and antique, charm. By night it is even more spectacular, as you explore the streets lit only by colorful lanterns hung outside every shophouse.

That night we headed out for dinner from our hotel, the sounds of Buddhist nuns chanting evening prayers while the distant beating of funeral drums added a dramatic touch to our stroll. We were wonderfully surprised to learn that our first night coincided with the full moon. Every month, Hoi An has a Full Moon Festival when the streets are completely closed to motorized vehicles. There are traditional cultural performances and the river is lined with vendors selling grilled rice cakes or candle-lit paper lanterns that you can place into the river to float your wishes and prayers to the gods. In the intimate and magical scene, you feel that at this time, in this place, the gods just might hear you.

Some photos below, with a post to follow on what we saw and where we ate (you didn't think I'd forget that did, you?).