It's already been over six months since Pierre and I arrived in Bangkok. And nearly two months since I went part-time with my job. It's always astounding how quickly the days pass. I'm disappointed that I haven't been able to write more here in recent months, but I'm hoping that will change soon.
These past few months have been filled with travel, Thai New Year celebrations, spending time with family, making new friends and re-discovering Asia's City of Angels. Bangkok has been an interesting place to be during the past half year, especially over the last week. A lot about Thailand has been revealed through the ongoing political crisis that has kept the country on its toes since last October. It's been an excellent crash course on Thailand's political and social situation!
This past weekend was the first time that I've had to worry about getting home before curfew in about a decade (!). Now past the "roaring" phase of my twenties, I'll admit I'm somewhat pleased there's a military order backing my homebody nightlife. So what is there to do in the sweltering Big Mango when a coup's been declared and a curfew is in effect?
DO - Check out Bangkok's happening coffee shop scene. Funky cafes with artisanal pastries and latte art are popping up all over the city. My new fave is Casa Lapin on Sukhumvit Soi 26 with comfy, copious seating, free wi-fi, a mouthwatering pastry display and creamy, ice-cold lattes. Your daily buzz never looked so hip.
DO - Check the news and/or Twitter feeds (such as Richard Barrow's) for updates about the political situation before heading out of the house/hotel in the morning. The security situation can change literally overnight and areas that may have been fine to visit yesterday may not be safe today.
DON'T - Let anyone persuade you that key tourist sites such as the Emerald Buddha or Grand Palace complex are closed. These con guys try their schtick on all tourist-looking types to rope them into an elaborate gem scam all year round, but may take advantage of the uncertain security situation to further convince victims they are "helping" them. Check the place out yourself first and never trust a tuk-tuk driver that will take a fare lower than 100 baht unless you're that confident about your bargaining skills!
DO - Stay indoors as much as possible. The humidity and heat are not to be reckoned with, especially during mid-day when you break a sweat before you even step outside. Pay a visit to the Bangkok Art and Cultural Centre (BACC) or an art space like Speedy Grandma (I just love their name!). The Thailand Creative and Design Centre (TCDC) in the Emporium Mall is great for marketing and design buffs. TCDC has a lovely library and workspace, design exhibition space and store with unique, local products that make great gifts.
DON'T - Attempt to visit an anti-coup or other protest site or take #selfies with armed soldiers. Though the city is mostly safe and calm, you can end up being in the wrong place at the wrong time in the blink of an eye. Stay up to date on what areas of the city to avoid and stay well away!
DO - Try your hand at Thai cooking! Learn all the fragrant, exotic spices that go into crowd favorites such as green curry, papaya salad and tom yum soup. The best part is that you have total control over the spice level and you get to enjoy it all afterward! The Blue Elephant is one of Bangkok's oldest, most prestigious culinary institutions but there are several more now around the city for differing tastes and budgets.
DO - Stop by for a refreshing tipple at one of Bangkok's many watering holes during early evening - chances are, there's a happy hour deal. Pomelo margaritas at Opposite Mess Hall, bespoke cocktails at U.N.C.L.E passion fruit pisco sours at Above Eleven, and tamarind margaritas at Maya are some of the best drinks I've had in this city thus far.
DON'T - Knock back too many drinks. This may sound obvious but I've heard some scary stories about foreigners getting spiked drinks and almost being mugged just a few minutes away from home. It's not common, but drunk foreigners are pretty obvious targets. Especially late at night in small, dark sois. Sip slowly, stick with friends and always be aware of your surroundings!
DON'T - Miss curfew! It's true that the curfew enforcement has been fairly relaxed in most areas of the city and some bars and nightclubs will stay open well past 10 pm. Thailand isn't a place you want to get caught missing curfew. Those lame excuses for missing curfew didn't work on your parents and they won't work now.
DO - Keep friends and family updated of your whereabouts. Every day. Don't assume no news is good news.
DON'T - Try to talk serious politics with locals and exert your opinion as a foreigner. Light-hearted chatting about the situation is fine (like the terrible traffic!), but be sensitive and aware this is a tense time where the unsolicited opinions of passing foreigners are not particularly welcome.
DO - Remember that a smile and a "kop khun kha" (thank you) will take you a long way here.
Bangkok is a sprawling, incredibly complex mess of an urban soul. Spend a little while and uncover some of its mysteries...